467-469 Brixton Road,
Brixton,
London,
SW9 8HH
(020) 7274 5360
The ViewLondon Review
Brixton is a melting pot of credible music venues and late night bars, but if you want to experience the best parts of the area with the added bonus of some cracking food and comfortable surroundings, try the welcoming arms of The
Prince.
The Venue
Adjacent to The Ritzy Cinema and just off Brixton Road, The Prince is conveniently located just a short walk from Brixton tube. You could easily miss it as it’s not on the main drag, but once you turn the corner and walk towards the Dogstar, you will
see it on your left and its ornate and beautiful appearance will make you want to investigate further. Once you step inside, you kind of forget that you are in Brixton as it is a very chilled out yet highly sophisticated gastro pub.
Immediately to the left of the entrance is the dining area part of the pub and, to the rear, is an area with lush leather sofas to melt into. Charming glass chandeliers are scattered around giving it an antiquated feel, as do the old fashioned gold trimmings on the ceilings.
Although The Prince has a low key feel to it, aided by the dimmed lights, the huge windows at the front bring in some light and allow customers to sit and gaze wistfully out into the heart of Brixton. Out the back there is a small concrete outdoor area
where you can smoke and get some air.
The Atmosphere
What is so special and different about The Prince compared to other drinking establishments in the area is its laid back and chilled out ambience. The music played is a genre-defying mixture and on Fridays and Saturdays, come 10pm, the DJ will be
spinning funk, disco and dance, with anything from David Bowie to Kylie Minogue on the playlist. Crucially, the music isn’t too loud allowing customers to appreciate the tunes whilst still being able to talk to one another. Expect
to find an older crowd - in comparison to some of the other venues in the area - who want some nice food and equally pleasant company. Another element that makes The Prince so great are its wonderful staff who go out of their way to make you feel comfortable and to make sure that you are well looked
after.
The Food
When it comes to food, The Prince really know their stuff. The menu is one common to traditional gastro pubs and you are spoilt with the large selection of dishes on offer. The starters consist of roast pear and Roquefort salad (£6.50), pan seared
scallops with triple-cooked black pudding (£7) or a smoked salmon and cucumber salad (£5.50). All dishes are presented to a very high standard and that is reflected in the quality of the food. The scallops are cooked perfectly and the crispy black
pudding works amazingly well with it. Also, the smoked salmon salad isn’t as simple as it sounds. The salmon is Norwegian so it has a more salty taste to it, similar to gravlax, and the sweet mustard dill dressing counteracts the harshness of the salt,
leaving a wonderfully balanced delight.
The mains are also fantastic. With choices of corn-fed chicken (£13), T-bone steak (£18.50), full rack of baby back ribs (£11.50) and a herb roasted oyster mushroom linguine (£7). The corn-fed chicken, served on the bone, is a comforting treat and the
flavours of the red onion and sage stuffing and hearty mash go fantastically well together. It is a real pleasure tucking into this dish and the addition of the thyme jus rounds the dish off perfectly. The T-bone steak tastes exceptional but it is more of a
sirloin steak rather than a proper T-Bone. Also, even though it is asked for rare, it is more like medium which might be a niggle for those who like their steak bloody.
They don’t scrimp on the standard of the desserts either, with a magnificent dark chocolate and walnut mousse cake and summer berries (£4.50) proving one of the highlights. One bite and you’re smitten. The mousse is light and not too rich but utterly
dreamy. If you are a dessert lover, then you must try this. It’s so good you’ll be begging the chef for the recipe.
The Drink
For a gastro pub the prices are actually quite decent. House starts at £3.75/£4.50/£13.50 for an Italian Merlot or Pinot Grigio, with the latter proving a refreshing tipple. The only problem is that the white wine is served lukewarm, which detracts away from the flavour
and quality, but nevertheless the wine is still good. The Santa Puerta Sauvignon Blanc (£4/£5/£15) is one to try, with notes of freshly cut grass and piercing limes and pineapple flavours, it is a drink that has many depths. The reds also offer Chianti for a
modest £20 a bottle, or if you want something from Spain then the 2006 Rioja for £22 a bottle may be more up your street. The sparkling options include a Prosecco Verduzzo for £18 a bottle (£6 a glass) and a Marchier Brut at £40. Prices
then rise to £58 for Perrier Jouet and £65 for Moet.
Don’t worry, there’s plenty for beer drinkers, too. There are seven drinks on tap with labels such as Strongbow, Staropramen, Fosters, Beck Vier, Kronenbourg and Greene King starting at a touch over £3 and going up to £3.85 a pint. The bar staff are
fully trained cocktail makers so if you ask them for a cocktail, they will gladly make it with ease and even do some tricks in the process.
The Last Word
The Prince is a fantastic establishment and it is a little haven from the hectic nature of Brixton Road. With such outstanding food and serene surroundings, it is no wonder it's such a firm favourite on the Brixton scene.
The Prince has been reviewed by 19 users