A favourite of all those Crouch Enders lucky enough to have it on their doorstep, The Queens is a magnificent pub serving up great food, good beers and an incredibly warm atmosphere.

The Venue
Just down the road from the famous clock tower and in the heart of Crouch End, the sumptuous authenticity of the Victorian exterior continues inside, with dark woods, cosy nooks, stained glass windows and almost impossibly high ceilings with ornate detailing illustrating the admirable retention of this once hotel’s original features. The venue itself is divided into two dining and drinking areas, separated by old, frosted-glass doors and an open bar offering views each way, enabling both rooms to feel simultaneously exclusive and inclusive; which is handy, because you’ll probably want to follow dinner by getting swallowed up in one of the big leather sofas that look just so darn comfy from the dining room. Whilst you are eating however, you can enjoy the spectacle of seeing your food expertly cooked from a huge open kitchen whose contemporary chrome fittings offer an apt juxtaposition of what makes the Queens so appealing, namely great modern cooking in an authentic, original setting.

The Atmosphere
With a location that’s a bus ride away for anyone but residents, the Cru Chend locals more or less have this place to themselves, but happily there doesn’t seem to any smugness involved from the Guardian-reading arty types that this place attracts. In fact, it’s predominantly relaxed and friendly, and even the slightly more formal feel to the restaurant area is offset by cheery, well informed staff who seem more than happy to have a chat if needs be. The bar, however, is the stuff of Sunday dreams; perfect for an afternoon of reading the papers, nursing hangovers and making the far-too-easy-to-make mistake of carrying on until it’s too late and you’re drunk and it’s closing time.

The Food
Don’t go to The Queens expecting fine dining fare, this is a place where relatively uncomplicated dishes are done superbly, with fresh, good quality ingredients and more often than not, very generous portions sizes. The menu is hardly expansive either but when the execution is this good, it really doesn’t matter.

The chicken and liver parfait starter (£5.50) is rich, superbly textured and brought to life by an inspired pear and chilli chutney that’s sweet, rounded and boasting just enough piquancy to make it an interesting alternative to your usual accompaniment. The mussels (£6.50) though, are the definite highlight, with huge, plump mussels steamed with chilli, ginger, garlic and coconut milk to bring a bit of the East to the humble shellfish. What’s particularly pleasing is that the kitchen has the confidence to serve it with big, hearty chunks of chilli and ginger, adding a bit of bite to each mouthful whilst the more finely chopped garlic dissipates into, and adds to, the sweetness of the coconut broth. It’s very fine indeed.

Mains are equally delicious, with a pan-fried sea bass (£13.50) being impeccably cooked and served with new potatoes, wilted spinach and a perfectly balanced, well-infused sauce vierge that complements the delicate fish thanks to a zesty vibrancy from lemon juice, roughly chopped tomatoes, olive oil and a handful of herbs. For carnivores, the hungry or the downright greedy, the mammoth cote de boeuf (£16.50) is a good choice, and even if you’re none of the above it’s worth a try anyway. A superbly cooked rib of beef with the tiniest hint of bitterness from the char-grill gives way quickly to a sweet, pink, juicy middle that submits to the knife without struggle. It’s served with a tarragon-rich home-made bearnaise sauce and chips that are so chunky they look more like roast potatoes, but in a good way; they’ve been double cooked and have that perfect balance between their crunchy exterior and an interior that is soft, light and fluffy. The additional salad is welcome, but will be nothing more than decoration for most.

Desserts are certainly worth saving room for too, with the highlight being an incredibly flavoursome and incredibly faithful blood orange sorbet (£4.50), that’s again, generous. It’s smooth, outrageously flavoursome and painfully finishable. The affagato (£4.50) is good for those who want something sweet but less filling, with a faithful version of the Italian classic seeing a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream plonked in a strong coffee.

The Drink
Testament to The Queens equal emphasis on both its pub and dining room, the drinks list is varied, and indeed every bit as impressive as the food. Guest ales from around the country join imports like Amstell, Leffe and Bitburger on tap, whilst expertly crafted cocktails including a cracking Bloody Mary are all £6 or under. The wine list is equally well conceived, with bins being conveniently categorised by depth and complexity. The house options are excellent, and represent really good value, not least the Il Banchetto Sangiovese (£12.95), a light, quaffable wine with hints of strawberries and vanilla, which are always a good combination. If you are feeling flush you can delve into more expensive options on a list that rises steadily through fruity tempranillos at £18.15 up to a still well-priced New Zealand Pinot Noir at £33.45.

The Last Word
It’s easy to see why The Queen’s is still so popular with Crouch End locals but don’t let them have it all to themselves, get to Finsbury Park, jump on a bus and enjoy one of the capital’s best boozers.

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