69 Clapham Common South Side,
Clapham,
London,
SW4 9DA
(020) 8673 9162
The ViewLondon Review
A very welcome addition to Clapham South’s stretch of bars and restaurants – and one with a Michelin-starred chef, no less.
The Venue
The Rookery is nestled in amongst a stretch of bars and restaurants a stone’s throw from Clapham South tube, and it benefits from a huge outdoor space that sits back from the main pavement. This makes it incredibly enticing when the weather is nice, with a large front canopy above a load of pretty little outdoor seating. Inside, it’s quite small but they have created a pleasant aesthetic with lots of woods, exposed brick and neat painted brick walls and columns. It does feel a little like a cute Roman underground bar than a neat restaurant, not that that’s a bad thing - the low-key nature of the dining space is a draw, if anything.
The Atmosphere
Like many of the restaurants and bars in this area of Clapham, The Rookery doesn’t suffer the fate of many of those on Clapham High Street, where you can expect a manic party-hard vibe. Instead, this is a chilled out spot that’s popular mainly with locals, which fits the styling of The Rookery perfectly. The staff are incredibly friendly and, being a small-ish venue, the service is efficient and speedy without too many tables to tend to at any one time. It’s ideal for whiling away a summer’s day with an alfresco meal, or cosying up inside when the weather takes a turn for the worse.
The Food
The menu at The Rookery is simple, succinct and well priced, with four choices each of starter (£4-£5), main course (£9-£13) and desserts (£5-£7). The delightful squash and chilli soup is a particularly impressive place in which to start; it combines the sweetness of the squash with a sharp hit of chilli for what's a lesson in balancing ingredients and getting seasoning spot-on.
For main courses they've started to branch out into pies, and the chicken and leek pie is impressive for just £9. Again, the seasoning is exceptional, bringing out the flavour of the incredibly tender chicken and tangy-sweet leek. Covered in a creamy mashed potato you really don’t need anything else than the accompanying salad as you’ll feel borderline obese by the end of it – even if you have a big appetite. Alternatively, the coley is a real eye-opener for anyone looking for a sustainable version of cod - it's the 'ecologists' cod', don't you know. The meaty white fish is cooked with expertise, allowing the flavour of the fish to really shine. Served with slow-roasted red onion to add some tang and underlying sweetness to the dish, it’s another great example of balancing a dish well.
When you find out that the ingredients are all sourced locally and the chef has worked in Michelin starred kitchens, it suddenly all becomes clear – this is one adept little eatery.
The Drink
The drink menu is impressive and well put together, showcasing smaller producers and quality beers and wine. The wine list includes some particularly interesting independent bottles that you’ll struggle to find elsewhere in London and you can easily spend around £20 for an above-average bottle. They also offer some exciting draught beers, including Anchor Steam, Sambrook’s Junction and some Meantime ales, all supplemented by a great choice of bottled beers.
The Last Word
The Rookery is a great little addition to Clapham South. If you want quality food by a chef with experience in a Michelin-starred kitchen, then you’ll struggle to find it as cheap as here.
The Rookery has been reviewed by 2 users