65 Rosendale Road,
London,
SE21 8EZ
0872 148 4981
The ViewLondon Review
Mark and Sharlyn van der Goot, the team behind the Greyhound at Battersea, deliver high quality, home-grown produce which hits almost all the spots.The VenueLocated a little off the beaten track in West Dulwich, this imposing 19th century Victorian coach house features a restored Royal Doulton-tiled facade and is the only worthwhile landmark of note in the area.
The split-level interior is both modern and relaxing. Features include restored original floorboards, deep leather banquette seating and crystal chandeliers. The exterior of the Rosendale has a spacious landscaped terrace, let down only by the plastic green and white chairs. The light wood decking provides a contemporary feel.
The AtmosphereThere’s a lovely, relaxed feel with no sign of diners being rushed. The clientele are mainly a young set who knows a good gastro pub when they see one. This is already a big hit with locals who keep returning for the fresh British produce on offer.
The FoodThe award-winning head Chef Matthew Foxon uses some of the finest produce from local Kent and Sussex farms in his cuisine, as well as using produce from The Rosendale’s organic garden. Starters include an unusual pig’s head roulade with tomato and onion chutney, a nicely balanced ricotta and tomato ravioli served with a delicate aubergine puree and a superbly fresh smoked salmon salad served with anchovy mayonnaise.
The kitchen staff works closely with a local farm in East Sussex in the rearing of their own livestock. Unusual varied diets such as apple pulp and barley cereal ensure that the meat is at its freshest when it hits the plate. The constantly changing mains include a decent rib eye, sirloin and rump steak and a triumphant new season lamb from Kent. The line caught fish of the day, direct from a market in Cornwall, provides a good alternative to the meatier dishes. However, the mains’ accompanying side dishes would have benefited from a little more attention. Desserts are the highlight with a sumptuous triple chocolate mousse with milk, dark and white chocolate. Also try the light and moist bread and butter pudding with an even lighter clotted cream ice cream.
The DrinkThe wine list has an international focus and there are more than 500 kinds listed, with an excellent choice of 30 wines available by the glass and around 125 listings priced under a reasonable £30.00 per bottle. Draught beverages available include Stella Artois, Staropramen, Leffe, Murphy’s, Beck’s Vier and Adelstones Cider. A duo of regularly changing real ales is also on offer as are a discerning selection of single malts, gins, cognacs and rums.
The Last WordThe Rosendale’s effort is outstanding and almost completely matched by the overall delivery.