41 Jews Row,
London,
SW18 1TB
0872 148 5379
The ViewLondon Review
Moored in the unlikely surroundings of a goods yard just off the urban landscape of the Wandsworth roundabout, The Ship somehow manages to create a uniquely nautical atmosphere.
With its prow-shaped conservatory and riverside poop deck, it has enough outside space to see why its pull is so great, especially on summer evenings when Battersea’s ‘rah’ crowd rub shoulders with some of the area’s saltier individuals.
With its own farm in Dorking, and a seasonal menu that changes daily, The Ship is a true gastropub. The burgers are a little let down by the use of standard-issue shop-bought buns, but the farm sausages with chive mash and onion gravy are delicious and the whole organic trout comes with a beautifully cooked, crispy skin.
On warm weekend evenings you’ll find a raucous crowd who’ve been there all day, and the somewhat overworked staff don’t always have time to clear the tables, making for a slightly used, sticky end-of-the-evening feel even early on. Getting served at the busy bar can take time, and you’ll be lucky to find space to sit outside unless you’re eating.
But thoughtful touches like the provision of blankets should the night turn chilly tempt one to stick around, and it’s nice to see your food being cooked on the large outdoor barbecue – though diners could very easily do without the bingo-caller announcing each order.
Despite its incongruous urban location, The Ship is a good place to spend a long summer evening, especially if you plan to eat. Quiet and intimate it ain’t, but its popularity shows that what it does, it does well.