This Greenwich restaurant goes back centuries and today it serves fine French/European food in a traditional atmosphere.

The Venue
The Spread Eagle has been around since the 1600s, back when it was a tavern and a coaching inn. It's now best known for its food, and with good reason. It's an attractive venue, with curved sliding doors in glass and mahogany revealing an old-fashioned interior, complete with a fireplace, soft lighting, well-stocked bar and dark, wooden furniture; it’s reminiscent of a gentlemen’s lounge from days gone by. A narrow iron spiral staircase leads to a room upstairs that can be hired out for private functions and weddings, and a separate downstairs dining area is small and lighter than the front room. Here tables are covered in white tablecloths and stylishly laid, the chandeliers sparkle and there's soft jazz playing in the background. The walls are covered in paintings, all of them of Greenwich, except for one of a former owner back in the 18th century.

The Atmosphere
The refined, quiet atmosphere that lingers within this place makes it the sort of establishment you might take someone for a posh date, without breaking the bank. The clientele is predominantly made up of couples, with many of those being of a more mature vintage. The service is attentive and professional, without ever being too formal or stuffy.

The Food
From Mondays to Thursdays there is a fixed price menu of two courses (£19.50) and three courses (£23.50), which represents pretty good value for food of this quality.

Starters include foie gras terrine, roast Tobermory scallops and velouté of cauliflower. Mains include golden risotto with saffron, parmesan and tomato confit; butter poached chicken breast; stuffed pig trotters; and daube of ox cheek with thyme and dark chocolate. Puddings such as tarte fine with apples and toffee apple butterscotch; crème brulee with pistachios and custard; and a French cheeseboard make for tasty treats to round off the meal.

The starter of wild mushrooms (sourdough, chanterelles, and trompette de la mort) on toast with a poached egg is delicious; the mushrooms taste straight from the forest and the egg is wonderfully cooked, with a beautifully soft and runny yolk. The salt cod brandade consists of a generous helping of salt cod akin to a pâté, with accompanying chili jam, crostini and a few olives and capers. On its own the cod is a little bland, but the chili jam lifts it beautifully. There could, however, be a touch more crostini on offer, as you may run out.

A main of filet of gurnard in sauce bouillabaisse (complete with a deliciously strong garlic puree) is served with carrots and potatoes, and is very good indeed. The fish is plump and cooked to perfection, as are the vegetables, which still have bite, whilst the sauce is rich with fresh tomato and fennel. A cassoulet of duck, chorizo, pork and butterbeans topped with crispy breadcrumbs is served with a small jug of wine jus, and is also well worth seeking out - the smoky flavour of the meat is perfectly balanced by the creaminess of the butterbeans. The portions might look small but after three courses you’ll certainly leave feeling pretty full.

As for desserts, all there is to say is if you come here do yourself a favour and have the chocolate fondant with ice cream and salty caramel sauce: you'll not be disappointed. The fondant has a rich chocolate centre oozing from within. The ice cream is more like a sorbet, and even though it doesn't exactly pack a huge hit of flavour, it is very fresh, and light enough to offset the richness of the chocolate. Profiteroles are filled with ice cream, covered in chocolate sauce, and taste every bit as good as they sound.

The Drink
A bottle of house wine costs around £20, and is the cheapest option on a wine list that rises steadily toward some very impressive options coming in at around the £80 mark. The house wine is excellent though, so don't be afraid to plump for it - both the red and white are flexible enough to work well with many of the dishes. There is also a small, but expensive champagne list for those eager to impress, and beers, soft drinks, coffees and teas for those who are not.

The Last Word
This much-loved establishment combines an enticing air of its lengthy past with some superb modern food. No wonder it's still going strong.

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