Tabernacle - the namesake of the street it’s located on - is a beautifully presented bar set across a sprawling space that also encompasses a club and dining room. Unfortunately, East Londoners may be put off by the Old Street party crowd of hen parties and tourists. This is definitely more Leicester Square than Hoxton Square at heart.

The Venue
Tabernacle is a short walk from Old Street tube, located along a lengthy, seemingly deserted street. In fact, it’s so bare you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve taken a wrong turn. However, it’s not long before the red neon Tabernacle sign blinks in the darkness, beckoning you inward.

There are two main doorways into the venue - one that leads into the main bar area, the other into the dining room. The bar is beautiful in design and could rival some of London’s big style bars. Black leather sofas with low tables adourn the space, providing comfortable but attractive seating areas. The long bar itself is long and gleaming, above which hangs a low section of ceiling that’s been wallpapered in a beautiful, funky silver flower pattern. However, the real highlights of the decor are the low-hanging large silver baubles that add interest to the otherwise airy space and some circular mesh light fixtures spaced at regular intervals by the large windows. Even when busy, the dynamic decor is eye-catching and appealing.

A walkway adjoins the bar to the dining room, a smaller space with a separate reception area and tiny cloakroom just through the doorway. Although the space is diminutive, the huge windows and high ceiling avoid any feelings of claustrophobia. The seating is quite minimal, tables for two (pushed together for larger groups) line the periphery, nestled against red leather sofa-style seating with low-backed chairs facing them. A cordoned off, raised seating area that can accommodate larger groups is a nice touch, partially hidden by a muslin curtain. In the centre of the dining area are a couple of tables with a ham, olives and candles sitting atop them, adding an authentic Italian rustic feel to the space. However, the orange uplighting that spews forth on each side of the room is a little tacky and almost retro in its ambience, although this is counteracted somewhat by the chandelier-style white lights that hang from the centre of the ceiling. The pierce de resistance is the huge open-plan kitchen that takes up almost the entire far wall, offering views of a clean kitchen.

In the basement sits the separate club, Cube, which is a lot more retro in design and comes equipped with its own bar, flashing walls and even a light-up dancefloor.

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect, there’s a real party atmosphere in the main bar area at the weekend, with groups of friends lounging in the sofas, enjoying a few pre-club drinks before heading downstairs to Cube. Although during the week the restaurant area is more the domain of business meetings and calm after-work meals, at the weekend it takes on the same party skew as in the bar area, which may or may not appeal to diners.

Unfortunately, because of its positioning by the Old Street party strip, Tabernacle attracts a lairy party crowd, rather than genuine Shoreditch trendsters and locals. It’s descended upon by hen parties, out-of-town clubbers and touristy wannabes. Luckily, the staff are charming, friendly and the service is efficient, even when the restaurant is at capacity and they’re catering for large groups. The wait times are kept to a minimum and the quality of the food is consistently high. It’s nice to see unhurried chefs delivering large volumes of food in an ordered manner.

The Food
The food is good quality, traditional Italian fare, well sourced with descriptions on the menu extending to where the meat and fish was brought in from. However, the prices are on the high side – you’re looking at £4-£9 for a starter and £16-£22.50 for a main, which is hard on the wallet.

The starters are impressive, and you can order smaller portions of the pasta mains as a starter if you wish. The seared Scottish scallops, monks beard and Sardinian bottarga (£9) is a nice dish. Although pricey, the portion size is generous with six plump, meaty scallops appearing with a generous helping of greenery in the form of the leafy, delicate spindles of the monks beard. The only criticism would be the presentation is a little slap-dash and the scallops are ever so slightly slimy in the centre, although their intense flavour cannot be faulted. Alternatively, you could try the squid ink taglialini with Cornish mussels, scallops and Amalfi lemon (£7). Again, the portion size is generous, with lots of large, fresh and well prepared mussels sitting alongside the dark, al dente taglialini. However, the overall flavour is a little bland, and it’s swimming in a broth that adds no extra dimension to the dish, instead just making it taste like a dull soup.

The mains fare better. The char-grilled Lorghorn rump steak with olive crushed potatoes and horseradish (£16.75) is delicious and well cooked to specification. The steak is easy to cut - not requiring a steak knife to slice through the flesh - and is pink, tender and juicy. Sitting atop a generous helping of potatoes, the olive flavour is clearly evident and provides a pleasant aftertaste that lingers in the mouth. The horseradish, rather than being a dollop on the side of the plate, is infused into the steak so that each mouthful has the zinging bite of the sauce permeating through the meat perfectly. Enjoy with seasonal greens in a chilli and Amalfi lemon dressing (£3). Well cooked and seasoned, the greens taste like they contain plenty of iron with a light lemon flavour permeating each mouthful ever so slightly. Alternatively, the Suffolk woodpigeon, classic Sicilian caponata and salsa verde (£12.75) is a well-priced option. Again, well portioned the whole pigeon appears nicely roasted on the bone. Unfortunately, it is a little tough, and you will struggle to rip the meat from the tiny bones – definitely not ideal if you’re trying to create a dignified impression. However, when you do manage to pull off a mouthful, the rich, gamey flavour is worth the effort. Enjoy with a side of creamy truffled mash (£3) that is soft without tasting chalky.

Unfortunately, desserts aren’t as good as the mains. Costing £4.75-£7.50, they’re well balanced across chocolate, fruit, ice cream and cheese dishes. The pear and almond tart with amaretto mascarpone (£5) is a let down. Cooked until black in appearance, the sweet, caramelised pear melts in the mouth; unfortunately, you’ll have to pry it from the dense pastry, which is tough to chew on and offers no flavour. Luckily, the amaretto mascarpone is delicious – creamy and rich with a strong amaretto aftertaste. The combined dessert of Sicilian cannoli stuffed with sweet ricotta with a glass of Zibbibo (a sweet dessert wine) is well priced at £5.50 for both. The cannoli is almost unpalatable, however, being overly crisp (a knife would be good here) and lacking in flavour. The ricotta is an unpleasant lumpy texture and the sweetness is missing. However, the dessert wine is delicious, with a strong sweet flavour of apricots coming through in each mouthful.

The Drink
In the dining area wine reigns supreme with a lengthy list that’s well-described by grape and region. Prices range from £14.50 a bottle to £85, covering all tastes and budgets. The Veneto Soave Classico from Suavia (£23.50) is at the lower end of the scale and is a full, aromatic bottle. However, it does have quite an acidic aftertaste, although for the price it’s a decent bottle.

In the bar there’s a great selection of premium spirits, including Don Julio tequila and Grey Goose vodka. There’s draught beer up here (although there isn’t any downstairs in the Cube club so if you like your pints it’s worth popping up to the bar), including Heineken, Amstel, Kronenbourg and Birra Moretti at an average price of £3.50, or bottles of Peroni and Corona.

However, their cocktail menu is the popular option. Only containing a few of the classics, they have a good choice of signature drinks. The white peach belini (white peaches and prosecco) is almost sickly sweet, appearing in a flute resembling a glass of Champagne. The peach flavour is lost but the underlying sweetness does make it easy to drink. Alternatively, the Italian Fizz (citrus Aperol, sugar and bitters, topped up with prosecco) is just as fizzy but has a distinct alcoholic kick and some added bite courtesy of the bitters. Priced at £7 they’re not extortionate and they keep coming even as the bar fills to breaking point, which is admirable.

The Last Word
Tabernacle is a decent bar with a beautiful decor and enviable location. It’s just a shame that the crowd is less East London and more Central London.

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