New to Clapham Common, The Underdog, not to be confused with its sibling of the same name on Northcote Road, is geared up to be a sport-watching destination of choice, and a rock bar.

The Venue
Any Claphamite will know the venue The Underdog has succeeded – the Peoples’ Republic - and parts of this old stalwart of the Common are still around despite refurbishment (it’s still managed by the same company). A stone’s throw (just over the road in fact) from Clapham Common Tube, the outside has been done up in a stark grey with a burnt-wood looking sign advertising the name of the bar and a large banner proclaiming it the new home of sport in Clapham Common.

Its bold claims are backed up with four high definition plasma screens together with a screen and projector, showing all the big games. That’s where the sports bar feel ends, though. Most of the bar is filled with wooden tables, with seating a combination of 70s-style bucket chairs (a remnant from Peoples’ days), shiny metal stools and wooden benches running around the walls with padded backs. It’s well-lit – almost too much so – by a bare white ceiling covered in metal light fittings holding yellow fluorescent tubes. The walls offer an eclectic collection of iconic photos, music memorabilia and the occasional historic sporting moment, together with a couple of random red tube lights on the right as you walk in and a large ‘Peoples Lounge’ sign over the entrance to a rear area (unsurprisingly again from Peoples’ days).

The Atmosphere
For now, during the week at least, you’ll find a handful of curious punters, and you’ll have plenty of space to drink and eat in peace. Once word spreads and the lure of sports screenings kicks in, The Underdog is likely to do a brisk trade. Providing the aural backdrop is an unobtrusive rock soundtrack. Staff are friendly and happy to help.

The Food
The Underdog doesn’t offer a big menu, but there's a good range of appetisers taking in nachos, spring rolls and buffalo wings (starting at £5), as well as a selection of sandwiches and wraps (£8 - £9.50), burgers and a ‘British Classics’ menu.

The salt and chilli fried squid (£5) comes with a good quantity of squid, aioli and a lime wedge but it lacks crispiness and feels a little tough. The grilled chicken quesadillas (£6.50) fare better and you'll get a stack of quesadilla wedges along with bowls of tasty sour cream and guacamole.

Main-wise, rather than traditional fish and chips the Underdog has made the decision to serve haddock fish cakes and curly fries (£9.50) - the curly fries are crunchy and delicious, but it’s debatable whether the smoked haddock fish cake is more enjoyable than a piece of battered haddock. A better choice is the Underdog beef burger (£8.50) with the same curly fries - a big juicy patty cooked perfectly with all the trimmings is always a good call.

The Drink
Like the food menu, the drinks menu is charmingly stylised - particularly appreciated is the division of wines into ‘Decent’, ‘Great’ and ‘Top Notch’. There aren't a huge variety of wines - 9 reds, 10 whites, 2 roses and a few bottles of bubbly - but those who want a bottle can be assured of something they will like at a good value price point. The Malbec Tarquino (£18 for the bottle, £4.75 for the 175ml glass) from Argentina is a full-flavoured red with distinct chocolate flavours and is well worth a try.

There are shooters for £4 (amusingly named after famous shooters such as Lee Harvey Oswald), virgin cocktails at the same price, draught and bottled beers (an excellent variety in bottles all hovering around the £3.50 mark) and a very hefty selection of spirits of all kinds (£5.25 to £8.25); that said, it's the cocktails (all £7) that will really make you look twice at the drinks menu. Two pages of them, both classic and unusual (and an invite to ask for whatever else you may like mixed) are accompanied by an image of the kind of glass it's served in, which is a nice touch.

The Porn Star Martini is made with passion fruit, vanilla sugar and vanilla vodka - it's a sweet and interesting flavour that gets followed up by a double shot of Prosecco on the side. The Stubborn Mule, with ginger-infused Finlandia vodka, spiced pear and apple, fresh lime and bitters and soda is a top notch – and very drinkable – take on a favourite and well worth a look. Top cocktails may not be the obvious choice in the Underdog but with such interesting, carefully made choices, they are definitely a highlight.

The Last Word
Although the food might not amaze you, if its exceptional cocktails and surroundings that are comfortable rather than hip, The Underdog has plenty to offer, particularly if you’re planning to watch sport.

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