Sometimes known rather unkindly as the Sloaney Pony after its allegedly young and titled habitués, the White Horse is actually a very decent, stylish pub with a serious beer list and a commanding position on leafy Parsons Green.

The Venue
Right on the green itself and just around the corner from the Tube, this big pub doesn’t have quite enough outside seating to make the absolute best of its enviable location, but still manages barbecues on the sought-after triangular front terrace in season. A former coaching inn and grand Victorian pub, it preserves fragments of indoor heritage including wood-panelling and decorated ceilings, though the main space is now a single drinking area around three sides of a horseshoe bar. One side is more traditional and wood-panelled with beer memorabilia, the rest has Venetian blinds and colonial-style armchairs and sofas, extending into a dining area in the old coach house at the back: often a quieter option than the rest of the pub if you want to eat. There are more rooms upstairs, often booked out for events, meetings and beer tastings but sometimes used as overspill. The overall effect is discreetly classy, though comfortable.

The Atmosphere
Formerly a Bass house, the pub is now part of Mitchells and Butlers’ Castle chain but does a very good job of retaining its own identity. Yes, it’s in a posh area, the prices come just a bit higher than a typical corner local and you’ll hear plenty of public school accents, but the outstanding beer range, good food and pleasant surroundings draw a much broader selection of folk than the pub’s nickname suggests. It’s often busy but the staff are polite, informative and attentive and you’re never likely to feel unwelcome, regardless of what background you come from. Most special events focus on beer or food.

The Food
A cut above the average pub grub without reaching too far into serious gastro territory, the menu describes itself as modern British with European influences, offered as both table service and bar meals. Starters might include rabbit and pork terrine (£7.50) or Norfolk pigeon breast salad (£8.15), while typical main courses range from gourmet sausage and mash at £11 to roast rib of beef at £39.75. There are some imaginative veggie options like gnocchi and wild mushroom sauté (£12.50). Set menus start at £24 for two courses. All dishes come with beer matching suggestions.

The Drink
Known for its beer since at least the 1980s, the White Horse was once the haunt of legendary cellarman Mark Dorber, who dry hopped his own Draught Bass, promoted Belgian beer when it was rarely encountered here and aged stocks of strong bottled beers. Its owners have wisely encouraged successive managers to maintain the specialism, and though the pub is no longer alone in offering a serious list of rare and exotic beers, it’s keeping up well with the competition.

Eight cask beers include Harveys Sussex Best, Adnams Broadside and Oakham JHB, plus guests usually from respected independents and bigger micros, with a mix of strong and mild, light and dark, including occasional rarities. There’s a 14-strong keg range that stretches beyond Budvar and Blue Moon to strong US craft beers. The US also makes a strong showing on the list of 200 bottled beers; others are from Belgium and the UK and in a few cases the pub is the only stockist in London. A number are in 750ml bottles ideal for the dining table, though often at prices equivalent to wine. The informative though not entirely reliable beer menu helpfully divides them into 13 categories. Four beer festivals a year, including an American and an old ale festival, expand the range still further.

If this doesn’t tempt, you’ll be pleased to hear that amazingly the managers have also found time to put together a decent wine list, including approaching 30 by the glass (from £3.70), and a collection of unusual bottled ciders and perries.

The Last Word
The combination of comfortable and attractive surroundings, good service, affordable fine food and a dazzling beer list remains unique in the capital, ensuring the White Horse a place in the ranks of essential London pubs.

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