The Windmill is like a Russian Doll that exposes a new surprise as each layer is stripped away.

The Venue
A few minutes from the Old Street roundabout, The Windmill is far enough away from the bright lights and crazy nightlife to be its own entity in the area. The building that houses the pub is a vast space with an ability to bounce echoes from wall to wall. The furnishings are minimal with the majority of the tables looking like the same wooden trestle next to it. There are a couple of red chaise lounges for something more comfortable to rest in.

After the initial look of emptiness and echoes comes the boisterous imagery of Italian football scarves and passionate red walls that lead you to believe that maybe this isn’t just your average pub.

The Atmosphere
The people that drink at The Windmill definitely seem to think of themselves as being more refined than those stopping for pints in the other pubs of the area. Whilst they may well be right, there’s a clear whiff of the ‘fit, but you know it…’ about them that detracts from the otherwise pleasant atmosphere. The crowd is mature and people come for the food as much as they do for social drinking.

The Food
Beneath its layers, The Windmill has an Italian restaurant at its core with a revolving menu that changes once a month. It includes dishes like tagliatelle di manzo - a dish made from beef, white ragu, chilli and rosemary. Alternatively there’s the branzino al vino - a pan-fried sea bass served with roast parsnip and pureed potatoes. The costs of main courses range from £8 to £13 and there are also starters, sandwiches and desserts.

The Drink
The Windmill doesn’t let its quality food down with the drinks and has made a concerted effort to source slightly more unusual beers. Heineken, Amstel, Peroni and the Portuguese Sagres are all on tap, along with Paulaner - one of the nicest wheat beers you’ll find. The wine range caters for expensive tastes with a good list starting with a house bottle that will set you back £17.

The Last Word
The Windmill is doing almost everything right but its lack of personality lets down the excellent food and drink a little.

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