I used to go this bar in Selfridges - before it was revamped and renamed the Wonder Bar - for a glass of champagne and occasionally a seafood platter or some really good pate. At midday on any day of the week it was buzzing and fun: there was an interesting menu and comprehensive wine list, and it was enjoyable looking down at the wine section below and watching people milling about. The only problem was that unless you got there early you might have to queue. NOW, however, with a new ethos (and greatly inflated prices) it is like a morgue: streamlined, bland, boring and empty. I have been there twice recently - on a weekday and a Saturday - and both times was the only person there! I returned yesterday for a third time just to check I wasn't hallucinating - and guess what? Apart from an elderly lady at one end of the bar and a young man at the other - neither of whom looked happy - there wasn't a soul there! I retreated briskly down the stairs recalling wistfully the old animation that it used to have and its slick and easy ambience. My verdict now? Elegant, expensive, bloodless.