Feeling more like a cafe-bar than a traditional pub, Truckles has a certain something that makes a naff Britishness almost chic.

The Venue
Situated in Pied Bull Yard amongst the quiet streets of Bloomsbury, Truckles makes the most of its location by embracing the local affluence. On approaching the venue, al fresco seating covers the paved yard in front and dozy street lamps light the way. Inside, the bar is decorated with country house overtones - white painted wood and terracotta coloured walls combine with flowers in large glass vases. The size is ample, airy and the venue benefits from the bright natural light that the huge windows afford. Furniture is simple, to match the understated country-look, but the wooden tables and chairs are accompanied by a small collection of bottle green Chesterfields, which are spread sparingly throughout. The bar is a pine coloured colossus, which runs from end to end, and the exposed kitchen can be gazed upon. This isn’t the kind of place where propping yourself against the bar is appropriate, most service appears to come to your table.

The Atmosphere
This is where the strange allure of the naffness rests. With a distressing soundtrack of lift muzak and jazz-fusion you'd think it would be hard to settle in and take it seriously. However, the effect of the music, the big bright windows and the contemporary style transforms it into a strange dream sequence, a loner’s paradise or a place that should be appreciated by couples in their twos. It's quiet and calm, attracting the foreign accents of multiculturalism and many more easily recognisable London characters.

The Food
A fairly expensive menu manages to justify itself with the presence of quality ingredients and some uncommon dishes. Sandwiches and rolls start it off and you should look no further than the hot salt beef, although at £7.95 it's expensive. Other fillings include chicken, bacon and mayo (£5.95) and Cumberland sausage (£7.15). The mains sound even better but, again, for what is essentially a cafe, prices are high. Kiln roasted salmon costs £14.25, while the other stand-out choice of hand carved Alderton ham and salad is £10.15. There is also a selection of sharing plates and some desserts.

The Drink
As a member of the Davy’s portfolio, Truckles is bound to excel with the type of wine list that could easily be found in a restaurant. Fifteen or so different bottles of each colour range in price from the £15.60 house bottles from Davy’s own range to the more lavish Kendal Jackson Zinfandel Vintners 2006 at £28.95. The list also includes a few choice Roses and a fine selection of Port. You can find Davy’s ales on draught but there’s no draught lager, only bottles trying to make up for that disappointment. Asahi, Corona and Budvar range between £3.65 and £3.80.

The Last Word
Truckles is a calm and controlled atmosphere offering the type of tranquility that a pub rarely does. Prices are high but in view of its excellent location, it’s certainly worth paying the extra if you're after a bit of peace and quiet.

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