Situated in the stunning surrounds of the 5 star Landmark Hotel, twotwentytwo brings a more relaxed bar and restaurant to the complex, albeit with an upmarket twist.

The Venue
Located in the basement of the Landmark Hotel, a stone’s throw from Marylebone tube, you may be surprised at the light, airy space that twotwentytwo (named after the address the hotel’s situated at – 222 Marylebone Road) delivers. You can enter from street level or via the hotel, although it’s worth coming in via the hotel entrance to check out the huge black life-size horse statue with a lamp protruding from its head. Unusual and kitsch for a hotel of this nature but quirky and cute.

Upon entering you may be surprised by what you find – a thriving bar with a few seats for dining at the far end. Red wooden panelling covers the walls, in keeping with the heritage of the space, highlighted by the ornate white ceiling. The room is divided into three main sections. At the far left is the bar area comprising a space mainly set up for standing around with a drink, beside an ornate heavy-wooden bar with wine bottles attractively set up behind it. Casual low tables and chairs line the periphery of the space around a central area where you’ll find the Champagne tables: a central section of booth-like chairs nestled around tables with the middle cut out for keeping Champagne on ice. This area is made all the more eye-catching by a scaffolding style contraption above it with low hanging lamps casting their glow over each table.

At the far right of the room is the dining area, made up of low-key dark wooden tables, unadorned by fancy tablecloths, pushed against a long tan leather sofa with comfortable stools the other side. Beside this small space are large granny-style armchairs that you can sink into after your meal with a digestif or settle in for the whole evening as you work your way through the cocktail menu. The set-up is more gastro pub than an upmarket bar and restaurant, although therein lies its charm and opulent twists such as beautiful chandeliers with delicate chains hanging low beneath them remind you where you are.

What stands the decor apart are carefully thought out touches that you’ll notice the longer you stay. Large gilt mirrors surround the space, adding an airy feel to the room and attractive Victorian lantern-style lamps can be spied with candles inside, creating a decorative appeal. Surprisingly, given this is a basement bar, there are windows that are only partially below ground so they do offer light from outside. The real pierce de resistance, however, are two specially-commissioned paintings depicting landmarks of London (think The Eye, Gherkin, Big Ben, St Pauls, Tower Bridge, and a London bus – number 222, of course). A nice touch.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere here is surprisingly upbeat and relaxed. Local office workers visit for a post-work drink, relaxing in the attractive surroundings. The din of conversation is pleasantly high as people chill out without a hint of the pretension that can accompany upmarket hotel bars and restaurants. In the background, the music changes as the night progresses - earlier in the evening relaxed chill out tunes play, changing to jazz with Latin tones, then pop and commercial songs through to house and even RnB as the night wears on. It’s a clever way of reflecting the mood of the crowd as the drinks continue to flow and the weekend nears.

That said, this is still an undeniably upmarket spot. The staff ensure you don’t forget where you are, their service is impeccable although it’s lined with a warmth and friendliness that won’t alienate those looking for a few relaxed cocktails.

The Food
The menu at twotwentytwo is simple and has an almost gastro pub appeal to it with dishes like fish and chips and steaks to choose from. Starters (£3-£8) include dishes such as a shellfish basque and beef carpaccio with rocket, black truffle oil and freshly shaved parmesan. However, it’s an idea to order the sharing platter instead, which is just £12 for three well-sized dishes, ideal for sharing either with drinks or as a starter to your meal. Recommended is the delicate, perfectly cooked calamari with a light batter that offers no hint of greasiness. Also good is the gravadlax – slim strips of delicate salmon with a delightful saltiness underlying each mouthful and a fresh citrus dressing. Finally, try the smoked aubergine puree with mini pitas. Although the fluffy, light pittas could do with being warm, they do provide an ideal accompaniment to the fresh, creamy puree with a pleasant aubergine flavour and smoky aftertaste that doesn’t clog the palate.

Mains include a range of dishes from salads to grills. Particularly good is the seafood risotto (£16.50) with generous helpings of softly cooked calamari and plump, rich king prawns, although there’s little evidence of the promised crab. There are also large mussels that slip out of their shells with ease, the stunning orange colour making the plate come alive. The risotto is a pleasant consistency - thick without being gloopy. Although creamy, it doesn’t taste like rice pudding, instead serving to highlight the strong flavours of the seafood.

If you want to go all out then the fillet steak is a house specialty although at £25 it’s not the most credit crunch friendly dish. Nicely presented, although not a hearty portion, it comes with a metal pot filled with chips. The chips are lightly salted and delightfully crisp on the outside with a soft, fluffy middle. It also comes with a delicious homemade bearnaise sauce that offers a creamy, rich undertone to each mouthful. Six vibrant red cherry tomatoes still attached to their stalks is a visually stimulating addition to the plate and are warmed enough so they’re soft and the sweetness of the tomatoes melt in the mouth. The fillet steak is a thick slab of meat although the consistency of whether it’s cooked to specification is a little lacking, which is disappointing. However, if it’s not what you ordered the staff will whisk it away apologetically without question and quickly deliver a replacement. A medium-rare steak is juicy, tender and full of rich flavours that pleasantly fill the mouth and is brilliantly complemented by the creamy bearnaise.

There are a few desserts on offer (£5.50-£6). The apple crumble with homemade custard is a little disappointing. The crumble isn’t as sweet as it could be and the fruit is a little too gloopy. However, the delightful custard is creamy and light with a rich vanilla flavour that works well with the crumble and lifts the flavours nicely. The chocolate fondant with butterscotch ice cream, however, is a real delight. The chocolate fondant is smooth, soft and rich and is well complemented by the creamy sweetness of the ice cream, which has a strong butterscotch taste that works in tandem with deep chocolate flavours. Delightful.

If the crunch is biting then twotwentytwo does offer special food deals such as a burger and chips with a glass of wine for a tenner. It’s a great deal if you’re looking to enjoy a night out somewhere nice but don’t have a lot of money to spend.

The Drink
There’s a lengthy drinks list in the bar with a good choice of cocktails (priced at the £11 mark), premium spirits, aperitifs and digestifs. They also offer some well-priced Champagnes, especially nice if enjoyed at the Champagne tables. A glass of Taittinger Brut Reserve (£15) is especially good with a fresh, clean taste that slips down a little too easily.

There’s a decent selection of wine by the bottle, although it’s not the lengthy tome of drinks you may expect from a venue like this. They’re well sectioned to make your choice easier, although each bottle isn’t described on the menu. However, the helpful staff are happy to make recommendations and really know what they’re talking about. A highlight of the menu is the Gavi di Gavi Casetta 2007 (£30), a dry, fresh and fruity white wine that has a wonderfully clean flavour. Also excellent is the Petit Chablis Chateau de Maligny 2007 (£34) with a delightful pale straw colour and a clean finish with lemon and apple flavours coming through. Excellent.

The Last Word
For a bar and restaurant located within a five star hotel, twotwentytwo is surprisingly relaxed and offers a few lower priced deals if you’re watching the pennies but want to go somewhere upmarket.

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