The main road into Brixton wouldn’t immediately strike you as the location for a top class restaurant, but that’s just one element that adds to Upstairs’ allure.

The Venue
The entrance on the side road is discreet, and after pressing the buzzer, ascending the stairs feels like you’re going into any other house on the street. At the top of the staircase a French waiter takes your coat and hangs it on the hat-stand before ushering you into the front room bar for a pre-dinner drink.

The Atmosphere
The bar is the height of cosy chic, with a glowing log fire, low sofas, and warm lighting. Drinks can be taken up to the dining room on the floor above, where the mood is enhanced even further by candlelight, another burning fire and about ten intimate tables. Your friendly hosts for the evening move expertly between diners, without disturbing the intimate setting.

The Food
With only three options per course (at £25 for two courses or £30 for three), the chef is obviously confident that you won’t feel limited by what’s on offer. The homemade bread basket is noteworthy itself – light, fresh batons of focaccia and homemade Irish soda bread with delicious doughy textures. A starter of salmon rillette marries finely diced raw fish with miniature scoops of subtle horseradish cream and strands of watercress. Ox cheek ravioli let the strong meaty flavours dominate in delicate pasta parcels, an intense dish contained well within its small portion.

Mains are not much bigger in size however. Venison is served two ways, thin strips of medium steak, alongside a single meatball, demonstrating clever versatility. It’s accompanied by uninspiring bulgar wheat and diced root vegetables, and whilst the jug of gravy (or probably ‘jus’ as it’s a classy establishment) brings it all together nicely, overall the plate could do with more substance. Fillet of skate is a meatier option - firm white fish glazed with the crisp, buttery sheen of the pan, alongside spoonfuls of sweet potato mash.

Poached pears and chestnut puree is an exquisite dessert. The fruit is presented beautifully - poached in soft slices, intersected by wafer thin pear crisps and topped with pear sorbet. The dots of chestnut puree take it a step further, offsetting the sweet pear trio with smooth nuttiness. Prune and Armagnac ice-cream is rich, sweet and boozy; not for the faint hearted.

The Drink
Cocktails in the bar cover all the classics, and there’s a great selection of wine, prosecco and Champagne, ranging from an affordable £16 to the slightly more extravagant £75 per bottle.

The Last Word
Some might baulk at prices that are perhaps slightly elevated for the area but for inventive style, excellent quality and perfect setting, the whole package very nearly gets top marks.

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