The Wenlock Arms is an unusual but hugely welcome success in the unending present-day battle to prevent pub closures – a battle often lost as British pubs continue to close almost every day. Threatened for months with closure and demolition, its demise was fought against by concerned campaigners and CAMRA. A recent key ruling by Hackney Borough Council has preserved its pub future. Now it demands major physical upgrading to be worthy of the efforts of its saviours.

The Venue
The Wenlock is a reminder of London’s great brewing heritage. As far back as 1835, it was the brewery tap of the once-adjacent Wenlock Brewery. It was subsequently owned by different groups, including Bass and, until 1994, by Carlsberg Tetley. It was bought in 1994 by two partners who developed it as a real ale mecca. It attracted many London devotees and was often selected as the CAMRA Pub of the Year for north London.

The partners decided to sell in 2010 and a subsequent agreement was reached with a developer for demolition. Opposition was led by a group, Save the Wenlock, composed of distraught customers, aided and advised by local CAMRA activists. Eventually the key decision was taken by Hackney Borough Council in December 2011. It extended the Regent’s Canal Conservation Area to include the Wenlock Road district. Its opinion was that the Wenlock has ‘historical value and architectural character and adds positively to local distinctiveness.’ The council can now veto any proposal for demolition.

Architecturally the Wenlock Arms is a straightforward square Victorian structure made of burnt English brickwork. It suits the workaday character of the industrial area of factories and warehouses that cluster around the canal’s Wenlock Basin. Internally it’s one large room with a distinctive horseshoe-shaped bar.

Now the pub is safe, improvements have to be made. The décor and furnishings are distinctly down-at-heel. It has been observed that the hoped-for demolition order had begun to be applied to the building inside. The floor is tacky and the walls are cracked and peeling. Tables and chairs are shabby and the toilets are only adequate.

The Atmosphere
Don’t let the present physical problems deter a visit. The Wenlock evokes a passionate pride as the Save The Wenlock campaigners demonstrate. This is evident in a pub football team and a cricket team, and it also hosts regular jazz sessions, with blues, swing and modern on Saturdays, and a New Orleans flavour courtesy of the Charles Morris Jazzmen on two Tuesdays – first and third – of every month. The Thursday Quiz is also a regular punter-pleasing feature.

The Drink
Over 1200 different real ales have been served at the Wenlock since 1994, and it continues to offer a splendidly varying choice. The eight handpumps always have one mild such as Mighty Oak’s Oscar Wilde and a stout or porter is frequently available - Saltaire’s Triple Chocoholic is often favoured.

The range of lighter beers is kaleidoscopic. Regularly appearing are Crouch Vale’s Brewer’s Gold, Dark Star’s Hophead, Adnams Broadside and Harvey’s Sussex Best Bitter. Recently ales from emerging London micros have been selected, including local ones from East London Brewing, London Fields and Redemption. A decent selection of bottled beers includes Bitburger, Budvar and Paulaner Hefe Weizen.

In addition, there’s always a draught artisan cider, currently Thatcher’s Cheddar Valley and there’s a keg, currently Thatcher’s Gold. The usual spirits and some wines are stocked but real ale makes up the vast proportion of the Wenlock Arms sales.

The Last Word
The Wenlock Arms has been saved; now it has to be reborn. Physical renovation is essential to secure a successful future. Despite this, it’s still well worth going to the Wenlock to raise a glass to Save The Wenlock and CAMRA.

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