Embracing the quintessential quirks that have come to define the Camden area over the years, this peculiar little pit stop with its kitsch ‘80s style cocktail bar and faux-chic pan-Asian restaurant makes for an eccentrically charming setting and a more than pleasant evening on the town.

The Venue
First impressions of Zensai don’t exactly hint at fine Asian dining but stroll past the large silver disco ball hanging from the rafters and avert your eyes from the kaleidoscopic cocktail bar with pink flashing lights and make your way up the stairs to the quaint pint-sized restaurant. Suffice to say, the decor isn’t any more conventional on the second floor. Orange paper lit lanterns, unkempt American diner style seating and a more than curious artificial picturesque backdrop that looks like a cardboard cutout from a children’s book. It’s all a little kooky but therein lies the restaurant’s alluring offbeat pulling power.

The Atmosphere
There’s nothing particularly zen about Zensai – not with the sound of Justin Timberlake snaking its way up the staircase and into the dining area. But as you’d expect, the eclectic mix of customers aren’t the slightest bit perturbed by the protruding disco beats from the lower floor. Staff are extremely helpful, approachable and only too happy to suggest what they deem to be particularly tasty dishes. Service is a little on the slow side though but it’s actually rather nice to sit back and ponder the week ahead whilst slurping a cocktail.

The Food
A moderately sized menu is confounded by the absence of a couple of the restaurant’s most appetising dishes. Malaysian oxtail soup is one such absentee so roti canai (£4.75), well kneaded Malaysian bread with chicken curry, is there to fill the void. The two leavened slabs of bread are akin to Indian naan, only denser, and when placed alongside the small, fiery looking pot of curry, the dish has the look of street food about it – humble, rustic and incredibly enticing. And it doesn’t disappoint. There’s nothing fancy about dipping bread into sauce but the sharp, pungent aftertaste really connects with the senses. Gado Gado (£5) has less vitality and is rather large for a starter portion though it does what it says on the tin. The tofu is the real standout, just light and springy enough without succumbing to chewiness. The sweet peanut sauce also complements the dish, binding the cabbage, bean sprouts and hard boiled eggs together with relative ease.

The staff are enthusiastic about the lamb shank and the beef rendang to such an extent that one might start wonder what’s wrong with the other dishes on offer. Nevertheless, at least one of the two dishes lives up to her expectations. The beef rendang (£7.50) is a rousing follow up to the roti canai and the two make for a great starter-main combination. An unassuming pot of meat is coated in a delectably rich sauce that packs real flavour. The deep, acrid overtones of the rendang are so appealing that the clumpy ball of rice on the barely registers on the side of the plate. The lamb shank (£9) is of the pale yellow variety and has the look of a chicken korma which is a little disconcerting for such a familiar looking dish. The meat is tender enough and it’s served with some lovely potatoes but there’s little trace of the stated chilli and turmeric and for all its qualities it’s an unusual and strangely unsatisfying option.

Of the four desserts, all of which are priced at £3.50, it’s a shame that the passion fruit mousse is on the missing list like the oxtail soup. Thankfully the chocolate brownies satisfy the palate at the end of a substantial meal. They’re served with vanilla ice cream and a thick, rich chocolate sauce. It’s best to rest a bit after the mains otherwise this might be a struggle to finish. Banana fritters are a pleasant surprise. Appearing overly gooey and stodgy, they’re battered to crispy perfection and the accompanying maple syrup is sultry and succulent.

The Drink
Seeing as though Zensai has a ground floor cocktail bar it makes sense to sample one of the intriguing mixes on offer so why not kick back and sip on a Marvin Gaye (£6.50) or a Stevie Wonder (£7.50) or better yet a Floridita (£6.50)? Billed as the gin cocktail for people who don’t like gin, it’s a luscious concoction of Bombay Sapphire, Lillet Rouge, lavender syrup and cranberry juice. Sweet with a sour tinge, it’s a light and airy cocktail that blends easily with most of the food on offer.

A Samurai Jack, on the other hand, sends a sharp shudder down the back of the spine and is best saved for the dance floor downstairs but you get what you deserve if you order a mix of Jack Daniels, Choya plum wine, maraschino and lemongrass. The other 15 or so cocktails also include a Thai Spiced Mule made with lemongrass vodka, chilli, lime, pineapple and ginger. All cocktails range from £6.50 to £7.50 and it’s worth popping in between 7 and 8 where you can get two for one.

The Last Word
It’s hard to say if Zensai has wild delusions of grandeur or whether it’s pitched itself as a parodied, paper cut out of a restaurant. What with the chromatic cocktail bar downstairs and this being Camden it’s more likely to be the latter and that’s exactly as it should be in this neck of the woods. It’s eccentric, innovative and brimming with energy and the food ain’t half bad either.

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