The National Maritime Museum has a new, £36 million wing. With it, come galleries, a library and archive, a coffee shop, and this brasserie. It’s a modern and attractive room with food to match, but it’s not easy to find, especially at night when the museum is shut. Will word-of-mouth ensure it doesn't suffer from its lack of passing trade?

The Venue
The Sammy Ofer Wing is named after the international shipping magnate and philanthropist who donated £20 million towards its cost. Sadly, he died just one month before the largest development in the National Maritime Museum’s history opened in July 2011. The building (and the brasserie’s interior) is an unapologetically modern combination of concrete and floor-to-ceiling glass which might strike some as sterile on a gloomy day or by night, but which comes into its own when the sun shines.

Talking of which, the restaurant’s 64 covers are augmented by 40 alfresco places under giant sun umbrellas. Inside, there are moulded, speckly, polypropylene chairs, a chocolate banquet along one wall, a smart bar to the rear and a polished concrete floor. It’s good looking, and a minimalist’s delight. The huge windows afford uninterrupted views of Greenwich Park, which is not much use at night – perhaps they could be spotlit?

Finding this place isn’t easy (at night, access is off King William Walk.) It’s on the first floor so, whereas at least the coffee shop below is noticeable, the brasserie isn’t. There’s a solitary, tiny sign along the route, and no signage at all on the restaurant itself. Surely etching the name into the vast expanse of glass wouldn’t compromise the clean lines?

The Atmosphere
A week after opening, perhaps unsurprisingly, evening diners are few and far between. Staff are smiley and efficient, and service is well-paced.

The Food
From a seasonally changing quintet of starters, Cornish crab cakes aren’t bad (but aren’t a bargain, either, at £9.50). The three mashed potato spheres have a good, crispy coating but could taste crabbier. A garnish of spring onion and coriander livens things up, and there’s just a smear of sweet chilli sauce. Potted smoked salmon (£7.50) really hits the spot. There’s great fish flavour, a nice course texture, attractive presentation on a rectangular board, and sensational, toffee-ish soda bread.

Ten mains are divided into ‘From England’s coastline’, ‘From the farm’ and ‘From the field’. Sea bass fillets (£14.95) are impeccably cooked with crisp skin, and come served with a branch of flavoursome cherry tomatoes and a tomato and basil beurre blanc that barely registers but take their place in what's certainly an appealing dish. Grilled mackerel fillets (£12.95) are equally well cooked, and come with softly sautéed carrot, onion and fennel, as well as a sprinkling of fennel seeds that works well. New potatoes are daisy-fresh and the chips (both £3.95) could be crispier but they do have lovely fluffy insides.

Puddings (all £5) are a bit of a letdown. A chocolate and honeycomb cheesecake is huge, very dense and not very chocolatey. Thank goodness for its accompanying kumquat compote with notes of vintage marmalade. From an extensive and imaginative selection of ice creams and sorbets, chocolate ice cream is a grown-up affair, full of quality, dark chocolate. Honeycomb, meanwhile, is a bit polite. Butterscotch is okay although its little cubes of fudge take some chewing.

The Drink
A global list (of four sparkling options, eleven whites, thirteen reds, three rosés, two dessert wines and a port) promises unusual grape varieties and a high proportion from small family growers. Blackboard specials include wines from producers along the Meridian Line which seems a bit gimmicky. Prices range from £15.50 to a modest £37.50 and there’s plenty by the 125 or 175ml glass.

Entry-level El Muro Macabeo from Spain (£3/£4.50/£15.50) is a crisp, refreshing, well-chilled quaffer. It’s worth trading up to Les Combes Cotes du Ventoux Blanc Terra Ventoux from France (£3.50/£5/£18.50), a perfumed, smooth cut above.

The Last Word
This restaurant is named after its exact geographical location (16 seconds west) but that location might cause it problems. It would be divine for an alfresco lunch during summer but on a winter’s night darkness will rob diners of the bucolic view, and the concrete and glass might seem cold instead of cutting edge.

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