Located in Andaz Liverpool Street, 1901 impresses on all accounts.

The Venue
1901 is undeniably a strikingly impressive restaurant, with an enormous ceiling held up by huge fluted columns that wouldn’t look out of place in an ancient Roman temple. Large circular lights border the ceiling of the restaurant and tables and chairs are simple but modern, and they do well to keep your attention on the sheer vastness of the space. In the centre of the room is a long, gray marble bar surrounded by high stools and a flock of smaller, lower tables. In this area you can knock back a drink or two, and for food options there’s a lighter menu as well as a mini version of the a la carte menu.

Towards the rear of the room is a high, rustically carved wooden table used to serve cheese and coffee. Several polished wooden stools, impressively carved from the same (presumably enormous) tree, sit around the table. The cube-shaped stools are beautiful, glossy and a warm amber colour, but are a bit too high to sit on comfortably. Behind this are rack upon rack of wine bottles along with two temperature-controlled glass refrigerators for the cheese selection.

The Atmosphere
Andaz Liverpool Street is in an ideal position to attract two of the groups that go out the most in the capital: arty Shoreditch types and the suited City crowd. Likewise, the hotel is a mix of sophistication and quirkiness, and you’ll feel comfortable at 1901 whether you’re in your sharpest suit or your latest vintage find. Staff are helpful and knowledgeable, with the perfect balance of professionalism and genuine friendliness.

The Food
The seasonal menu is nearly entirely British, with the exception of some desserts, with each starter and main qualified by the county (or country) it comes from. All starters are £10, mains are £22 and desserts £7, but you can order smaller plates at the bar for a lower price, and tapas dishes from the bar menu cost £3 each.

To start, the wood pigeon with wild mushrooms and Jerusalem artichoke veloute is simply presented, with the veloute poured by the server. The pigeon is pleasantly pink, with rich, tender meat, and in case you doubt its Yorkshire pedigree you’re warned when you order that there may be shot still in the bird. The veloute is powerfully flavoured though, and overwhelms the mushrooms a bit, but the creamy consistency works well with the meat and gives it an added texture. Good sized scallops come with a rectangular sliver of scored pork belly and a slash of bright green parsley sauce. The scallops are slightly sweet with a thick, meaty texture and the hearty pork adds savouriness to the dish.

Mains include a steamed John Dory from the Isle of Wight. Simply presented on a white plate with little in the way of accompaniments, the quality of the large portion of fish speaks for itself. The fish is minimally cooked, fresh and light but still meaty. It works well with the sea beet and shellfish vinaigrette, which adds a very subtle tang. Plump and juicy mussels complete the dish. The venison is a rich, warming dish, with large chunks of slightly pink meat in a thick, moreish red wine and port sauce. Accompanied by tiny little cubes of salty bacon and succulent baby onions, it’s almost like a posh stew. A side of almost impossibly smooth, well seasoned mashed potatoes is served in a small iron cauldron, which adds a friendly, old fashioned touch to the dish’s presentation.

Desserts keep the traditionally British theme going, and as with the rest of the menu many choices have creative touches that make them just a bit different than you’d expect. Chocolate mousse has a thick consistency and a dense, bittersweet taste, and the little dollops of roast pumpkin on the side add bright colour and a welcome wintery flavour. Irish coffee parfait has a similar texture to the mousse but comes with a great boozy aftertaste that’s rich and warming. Cheesecake is, actually, a cheese cake, this one made with a sharp, soft Beenleigh blue cheese that adds a whole new dimension to the traditional pudding. Apple crumble is another classic dish, and 1901’s version has a good ratio of sweet apple slices to floury crumble topping. Elderflower creme brulee is light with the taste of elderflower coming through well – the rosehip sorbet that accompanies it (made with handpicked rosehips) adds a complementary fruitiness.

There’s also a large cheese selection, which you can have brought to your table or choose from the wooden table at the back of the restaurant. A selection of five costs about £9, and the cheeses are mostly British with a sprinkling of goat’s, ewe’s – and French – thrown in. The cheese is supplied by La Fromagerie, and the restaurant’s staff have spent time training there so they’re incredibly knowledgeable in regards to recommendations.

The Drink
The wine list at 1901 is manageable, with a decent selection that’s not too overwhelming. All the wine on the list is commendably served by the glass as well as the bottle, from £5 and £21 respectively, which is reasonable for the area. If you’re game, though, ask the sommelier to choose wines to complement your meal. The Antique Amontillado, Fernando de Castilla is a sherry, lighter than you might expect, with a slight fruity flavour that works well with the gamey flavours of the pigeon. A 2004 Riesling, Spatlese Trocken, Bernkasteler Lay, M. Molitor from Rheingau, Germany is a white wine that’s light but rich at the same time, a perfect match for the scallops with pork.

From the main courses, a 2001 Shiraz l’Oizeau, Hewitson, from Mclaren Vale, Australia, complements the rich, meaty flavour of the venison with its red berry flavour and slightly thick consistency. The 2006 Chablis 1er Cru Montmain, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine D. Race from Burgundy, France is a light wine, crisp and almost creamy, that doesn’t overpower the fresh flavours of the John Dory. From the list of dessert wines, 1997 Chateau Sigalas Rabaud 1er Cru Classe, from Sauternes, France is very smooth, very rich and very sweet, but in no way sickly. There’s a long list of cocktails available as well, starting from £9 and reaching £55 for a Vintage Classic, which includes Hine Antique cognac, sugar, Angostura bitter, Grand Marnier Cuvee du Centenaire and vintage Champagne.

The Last Word
Sophisticated without being stuffy, 1901 is an impressively elegant venue that manages to stay friendly even with its austere surroundings.

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