A venue that takes both its food and wine seriously but thankfully remains casual and laid back.

The Venue
Named after the two latitudes between where nearly all the vineyards in the world are located, 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen is the second venue from Texture’s Xavier Rousset and Agnar Sverrisson. 28-50, though, is pretty much the polar opposite in terms of décor, as instead of Texture’s minimalism there’s plenty of rustic touches like boxes of Champagne, brick walls and old wine bottles. There are some tables around the old fashioned bar area and a more open restaurant area towards the rear, whilst a modern looking mezzanine looks like it would be a good fit for larger groups.

The Atmosphere
It’s a basement venue, which means no windows, but luckily it’s not too dark and there’s a laid back, casual atmosphere. Staff are pleasant and good with recommendations while service is quick. The location – near the corner of Fetter Lane and Fleet Street – means that the clientele seem to be mainly suited local workers, but there’s the occasional small family group as well.

The Food
Head chef Paul Walsh spent five years as sous chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and, though the brasserie-style menu and simple presentation may not show it the flavours speak for themselves. A starter of cod brandade (£5.50) is thick, salty and creamy, a perfect match to the crisp bread spread with tapenade and the accompanying thinly sliced chorizo and sweet peppers. Gazpacho with prawns (£6) is also good, with a similarly fresh flavour and juicy prawns.

Continuing the summery theme, the salmon dish (£14.50), served medium-rare but still hot, comes with a tomato vinaigrette with cucumber and basil that’s so flavourful you’ll be asking for extra bread so you soak up as much as possible. The pork belly with braised cabbage (£14.50) is more filling, the pork soft and perfectly cooked with layers of fat that melt into the meat. The cabbage, scattered with more cubes or pork, is slightly tart which cuts through the richness nicely. For puddings, the lemon tart with yoghurt ice cream (£5.50) is light, tangy and sweet and the coconut parfait (£6) comes with a light and refreshing coconut sorbet.

The Drink
Despite its concentration on wine, the list at 28-50 is surprisingly short and to the point. There’s a winemaker of the month, a collector’s list with pricier bottles and the main list, which offers about 10 whites and 15 reds, each by the bottle, carafe and glass (150ml and an unusually sized 75ml). Bottles on the collector’s list are mostly French and reach heights of £440 but the main list is more reserved, with a range of £1.95 for a 75ml glass and £49 for a bottle. Standouts include the fresh and vibrant 2009 Rueda Verdejo and the fruity and ripe Pinot Noir from Mornington Peninsula, Australia. For those who want to know more about wine, wine and winemaking workshops cost £25 per person and start in September.

The Last Word
Although 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen is big on the booze, the food is well worth trying out, even if you can’t tell your Chardonnay from your Shiraz.

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