Looking positively at ease in the glow of Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social opposite, 5 Pollen Street is a stylish dining room offering modern Italian food, with an inclination towards the ‘mountain food’ of the northern regions - so not a mozzarella and tomato salad in sight.

The Venue
The deep, narrow room, fronted by a bijou lounge area and bar, is beautifully adorned with Brit artist Gary Hume-designed wallpaper and woven silk panels, creating an arty backdrop for the classic white linen dressed tables that line each side of the room. For something a little more private, a small but perfectly formed dining suite nestles at the back behind glass doors, tempting groups of up to six for an intimate supper.

The Atmosphere
Sophisticated, understated and refreshingly grown up, 5 Pollen Street opts for food over fashion or fad, offering somewhere that's smart but not stuffy and high end but not high maintenance. Unobtrusive music softens the chatter from neighbouring tables while the artistic décor nurtures the cultural soul without making an exhibition of itself. Service is well-pitched - friendly when invited, discrete when ignored – with excellent staff exuding knowledge about the food they serve to their diverse clientele.

The Food
With a menu classically split into starters, pasta/risotto, mains and desserts you’ll find fresh (and freshly imported) Italian ingredients taking centre stage. Fortunately, for those that may feel slighted by an absence of technical trickery - no emulsions in sight! – they are beautifully prepared.

Peppercorn-seared tuna with a fennel salad and orange dressing is faultless, while a selection of tasty wild mushrooms are lightly cooked and invigorated by perfectly cooked quail's eggs and a delicious toma cheese. The mains are no less pleasing, particularly the delicious loin of venison that's perfectly cooked and served with red cabbage and some very impressive polenta gnocchi. The beetroot and ricotta ravioli is a delight (if a touch too subtle on the beetroot), with al dente pasta and a generous sprinkling of poppy seeds bringing an inspired contrast to the look and texture of the dish.

Finishing with the traditional tiramisu for dessert comes highly recommended – it isn’t the most adventurous of choices but it is suitably exquisite. The chestnut cannoli and Queen apples doesn’t command such high praise, failing to deliver the intensity of flavour it needs - though it might work for those preferring less sweetness to their finale.

The Drinks
The bar offers a good selection of Italian aperitivo, with suggestions of this being expanded in 2012 to include the accompanying 'finger food' selection for the after-work or start-the-evening crowds. There is good advice available on the decent wine list: an impressive and perfectly matched Riesling for the tuna and a hard hitting Tuscan for the venison, which holds its own but doesn't quite wow.

The Last Word
A sophisticated yet unpretentious dining room, serving high-end Italian fare with fresh, quality ingredients taking centre stage. Definitely worth a visit if you want to sit back and enjoy the seemingly uncomplicated experience of a great place serving great food.

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