Super friendly service, wine by the carafe and diverse ingredients; it’s another reason to not quite make it all the way up to Dalston.

The Venue
Located behind a faceless shop front with little to give it away, A Little Of What You Fancy is a neatly packaged surprise. Behind the glass you’ll find a relatively narrow space with a minimal, modern-European style. A stone floor is warmed up by a selection of simple wooden tables and chairs, each decorated with a half-pint tankard filled with foliage. It’s lit intimately by hanging light bulbs that dangle from above, while displays of fresh vegetables and bread give it a larder-like touch.

The Atmosphere
Welcoming and relaxed, A Little Of What You Fancy buzzes. Not at all pretentious, despite the ambition of its multiple head chefs and the mixed menus, it’s almost like your own dinner party at your table. Most of the informal set-up caters to smaller groups but bigger parties can be accommodated. The atmosphere is fun and the staff talkative, and it attracts a young, mixed crowd to its charming environment.

The Food
Serving food all day, the restaurant starts early with well presented classics like eggs Florentine and its own take on the bacon sandwich - streaky strips of meat with mixed leaf salad and a rich chutney like tomato sauce between thick slices (£5). However, the evening menu is most interesting, where stand-out starters include celeriac, apple and Dijon soup and field mushroom crostini with garlic and thyme (£6-£6.50). Mains change frequently but on this occasion it’s a whole roast mackerel with Yorkshire rhubarb and new potatoes (£14.50) that will inspire a trip back. There is also a tender, delicately cooked French duck breast with sweet and sour red cabbage (£16.50). Desserts are hardly an afterthought and before Square Mile Coffee or an organic cheeseboard there’s the tempting appeal of baked cheesecake with nutmeg, or vanilla meringue with rhubarb and cream, or a selection of ice cream and sorbets. Portions are generous and although prices aren’t cheap, when the food arrives you’re reminded why.

The Drink
Doubling up as a café during the day, it serves a good range of coffee using Square Mile beans. There is a small selection of premium spirits, and the menu will often boast of the day’s special alongside the starters - Sipsmith Gin and tonic anyone? If you’re a sucker for wine by the carafe, then you’ll be glad to hear that A Little Of What You Fancy is a place where you can get your European on. The house tipple starts at a rather pricy £12.25 for the smaller size but bottles are also available. The Domain Grizan Pinot Noir is an extreme delight but lavish at £25.00, among the choice of six or seven of each colour.

The Last Word
A Little of What You Fancy is that and more. An adventurous kitchen with an attentive entourage around it. A must for sure.

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