69 Swinton Street,
London,
WC1X 9NT
0871 971 4731
The ViewLondon Review
London’s first eco friendly training restaurant, from Fifteen alumni Arthur Potts Dawson and Jamie Grainger-Smith, can be found in the heart of Kings Cross.The VenueCheerful, light and simple decoration sets the tone in a welcoming environment, where there’s lots of natural daylight and plenty of breathing space. Lots of leafy green and dark brown reflects the eco-friendly ethos and different raw ingredients sit on shelves across the back wall.
The designers have tried to use environmentally sustainable materials where possible, making a concerted effort to put green principles into practice. At the front of the restaurant is a serving area, where you can drop in for coffee and pastries in the morning, or for pasta and salad to take away at lunchtime.
The AtmosphereSitting in Acorn House, it’s easy to forget about the traffic and hassle of Kings Cross and the place does feel like something of a sanctuary in the middle of the city. While it's easy going enough to take friends for a meal and some drinks, it's also sharp enough for a business lunch, as long as you can afford to take some time over it – Potts Dawson and Grainger-Smith are fans of slow food and there’s no rush about the place.
They're also trying to give something back to the area - training up to ten young chefs from the local community - a feat they're achieving admirably as you'd be hard pressed to find fault with the food here.
The FoodThe meat, fish and vegetables prepared here are, where possible, from sustainable sources and local farmers. You can actually taste the health in the food you eat - it’s a relief to be able to taste the vegetables themselves, so little are they dressed up – and dishes are colourful and appetising. Salads like yellow beetroot, carrot and coriander and Swiss chard, miso and lentils are bursting with vitamins and goodness and the spinach, goat’s cheese and kale frittata is tasty and filling. All dishes are available in at least two sizes, to avoid waste where possible.
The dinner menu includes unusual and delicious combinations like roasted English guinea fowl with mascarpone and sage and pork chop with soy, honey and thyme. Desserts like rice pudding with poached quince and biscotti and spiced warm flourless chocolate cake with ginger ice cream are equally remarkable.
The DrinkThere’s a good selection of wines available, including an organic red and an organic white. Most of them are very reasonably priced and a handful are available by the half bottle and by the glass. The wine list isn’t too long and, as with the food, there’s a sense that good wines have been carefully chosen, with an emphasis on quality over quantity.
The Last WordThe food at Acorn House is really excellent – new and delicious. Arrive prepared to leave your frantic London attitude at the door and step out of fast food culture into this healthier, earthier way of eating.