Stylish, minimalist and relaxed, Akari is a Japanese restaurant and bar that proves getting the simple things right is what counts.

The Venue
Since its time as a pub, 196 Essex Road has played host to a number of unsuccessful restaurant ventures. However, Akari looks set to exorcise the ghosts of failure that seem to haunt the premises. With its low-key minimalist decor and black clad waitresses, the Japanese kitchen and bar is the latest enterprise to take advantage of the increasingly trendy Essex Road, forking off from Upper Street like its pleasingly shabby younger brother.

The Atmosphere
The no frills approach works well in the pub building with the old bar area providing an open kitchen where the cooks prepare your food – Wagamama-style – before your eyes. The old public house ambience seems to have lingered too in its oak panelling and gilt mirrors, further reminders of its previous incarnations. With friendly and efficient waitresses, and its menu of small shared dishes, the whole set-up of Akari lends itself to a long drawn-out stay.

The Food and Drink
A reassuringly brief menu, suggestive of specialist cooking, boasts a variety of small dishes from soups to sushi, some of which is remarkably reasonable. The substantial and extremely tasty dumpling in spring onion soup (or sui gyoza) comes highly recommended at a mere £3.50. A good deal considering a brace of rice balls will set you back the same amount. The wide selection of fruity Chi-Hi or Japanese Spirits Cocktail and the quintessential Japanese spirit, shoshu are also worth sticking around for. Alternatively, there is Kirin and Asahi lager on draught for the less adventurous.

The Last Word
Vying for attention with the growing number of eateries popping up on the Essex Road, Akari is a very welcome addition. Let’s hope it survives.

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