You can always tell the cut of an Italian restaurant's jib by the number of Italian diners. Al Volo reels them in by the dozen, for a glass of spritz and an authentic bite to eat.

The Venue
Al Volo is in a very trendy part of town, just off Brick Lane in The Old Truman Brewery, where Shoreditch hipsters come out to play. The restaurant has a curious appeal on the approach, with its outdoor terrace boxed in by a marquee cover and a pretty, floral lattice effect on its front. At night, this pod is lit up by orange and purple lighting and kept warm by patio heaters, giving it a touch of magic. On the unsheltered terrace, bright orange pushbikes are propped up, proclaiming the roots of this restaurant as a delivery service. The small indoors section of the restaurant is split into two by another white cut-out panel. On one side is a dining area with a wooden floor and neutral colour code, but behind the shelter of the partition is booth seating for a more intimate and cosy affair.

The Atmosphere
In Italian ‘al volo’ means on-the-go, but in fact the atmosphere here is incredibly relaxed and placid. The staff are laid-back but attentive, and the clientele is mostly Italian, giving the restaurant a very continental vibe. Coupled with the outdoor canopy and low lighting in the evenings, Al Volo feels like a bubble of its own, a mile away from busy Brick Lane. However, the barren car park and graffiti-scape that the restaurant overlooks gives it a very urban feel, snapping you right back to reality.

The Food
The menu at Al Volo is varied and holds some well-known Italian classics along with lesser-known regional dishes. The toritino de melanzane (£4.50) is a layered stack of breaded and deep fried aubergines, with mozzarella, parmesan and basil, all covered in a rich tomato sauce. It is small in size but big in flavour. Alternatively, the soppressate di polipo al balsamico (£6.20) is a large rocket and olive salad with the most thinly sliced strips of octopus on top. The basic balsamic reduction allows the delicate taste of the octopus to shine through.

Freshly made pasta is served at Al Volo and there are a number of fresh and dry pasta dishes to choose from, like the gnocchi con salsiccia e zafferano (£8.90). It is a powerful dish packed with an overwhelming herby taste of saffron, rosemary and thyme. Italian sausage is crumbled into the tomato sauce adding even more intensity to the dish. Luckily, the gnocchi is unusually light, making it an enjoyable but slightly overpowering option. The tagliata di manzo alla romagnola (£14.90) is about as close as it gets to a simple Italian meat course. The Australian beef loin is grilled to perfection and served on a bed of rocket, tomatoes and parmesan, with a balsamic reduction adding to its simplicity.

Pizza is popular at Al Volo, and stone-baked, thin-crust pizzas emerge from the kitchen with monumental toppings. The ortolana (£8.20) is a great vegetarian option with courgettes, aubergines and mushrooms all thrown on top. The pizza Al Volo (£9.90) is half pizza, half calzone, and comes with speck and fontina cheese on one side and mushroom and gorgonzola on the other. Plenty of options are on the menu for a light snack too, with a range of bruschetta dishes each around the £4 mark, piadine sandwiches (£6.50) filled with Italian hams and cured meats and a choice of soups (£5).

Options for dessert are fairly limited, and not quite so regionally inspired. Instead, classic Italian puddings are on offer, like the tiramisú (£4.80), which is presented more like an ice cream sundae. It has a gooey texture but is not especially exciting in flavour. Panna cotta con salsa di fragole (£4.50) is a huge portion of incredibly sweet pudding. Again, the presentation leaves a little to be desired, but it is delicious all the same.

The Drink
Al Volo celebrates the spritz (£7), a cocktail from Veneto made with prosecco, aperol and sparkling water. It is a bitter-sweet aperitif that has a fruity kick and is served with a plate of delicious nibbles. Spritz parties are held every Sunday and are not to be missed. Other cocktails include the ever-popular negroni (£7), making this a lively place for evening drinks on the terrace. Al Volo’s Italian wine list includes reds, whites, roses and proseccos. Glasses of red and white wines start at £4.20, with the house wines costing £14.50 a bottle. The salice salentino riserva Francesco Candido (£18) is a full-bodied and peppery bottle of red from Puglia – a fine choice for an evening’s dining.

The Last Word
For a modern and young take on authentic Italian dining in London, Al Volo is a great choice. It combines fresh, regional cuisine with a fun, alfresco décor that attracts Italian diners and gives the restaurant a warm and relaxed summer's day vibe.

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