Croydon may not be synonymous with fine dining, but to dismiss it out of hand is to miss a treat. Amid the lively bars and Indian restaurants sits Albert’s Table, looking faintly embarrassed at the company in which it finds itself.

The Venue
Stepping into Albert’s Table is like turning back the clock — to an altogether gentler era. Croydon’s buzzing South End melts away and the restaurant’s serene ambience wraps you in its soothing embrace.

The Atmosphere
Albert’s Table is spread over two rooms, both full of light and with a decent amount of space between tables. There is no background music, which is rather refreshing, so the only sounds that rise above the hum of conversation are regular mutterings of appreciation.

The Food
While Albert’s Table may appear something of an anachronism, its food is bang up to date. The style is described as a ‘modern take on British cooking’ and everything is as fresh as possible. All bread is made daily on the premises, fish is delivered every day and meat is not intensively farmed. The ethos is nose-to-tail eating, so as much of the animal is used as possible. Of which more later…

So among the starters, you will find a Dorset crab tart, simply presented and deeply crabby as advertised. The chef has an enviably deft touch with pastry — that which encases the tart’s delectable filling is as light as angels dancing. A ballotine of rabbit and foie gras is far from delicate but sensational nonetheless. A sizeable serving is accompanied by a punchy onion marmalade and slices of toasted bloomer. Interestingly, there is no salt and pepper on the tables - admirable and assuring confidence from the kitchen.

Back to the nose-to-tail meat. Salt Marsh lamb appears in the form of roasted leg and, unusually, confit shoulder, which is rich and full of deep flavour. The meat is complemented beautifully by ‘imam bayildi’ — a Turkish dish whose name translates roughly as ‘the priest swoons’. This is appropriate as, with the lamb, it is a match made in heaven. There are many versions, but this is kept light and simple, the aubergine cooked with plenty of mint and sweet tomatoes.

Old Spot pork is, if anything, even better. A succulent slice comes with gorgeous buttery crackling and a pretty little pie of shoulder and peas napped in a light cream sauce, enrobed with more of that light-as-air pastry. The pie is topped with mashed potato, which, while nicely flavoured, is the consistency of wallpaper paste. But this is to quibble — and silky-smooth mash is better than lumpy — everything else is faultless.

The excellence continues with the puddings, if you have any room left for one. Panna cotta, delicately flecked with vanilla seeds, is served between crisp little biscuits, with crème fraiche ice cream and berries, the perfect pudding for a summer’s eve. Chocolate fondant, with its oozing centre, is more substantial, accompanied by a bitter chocolate and orange tart and a chocolate cigar.

Three courses for dinner are £27.50, which seems extremely good value given the quality of the food. Two courses are £22 (prices are £19.50 and £16 for lunch) and supplements charged, of £5 and £3 respectively, for Herefordshire beef and cheese.

The Drink
Value for money continues with Albert’s Table’s wine list, with something to suit every pocket, including a good selection by the 175ml glass. And it helpfully includes its more select vintages under “reserve wines”. So here you will find such gems as a Chablis premier cru at £44, a Puligny Montrachet, which is a not unreasonable £51, and a Riesling at a blistering £92. Among the reds are a Saint Emilion premier cru at £54, a Barbera d’Asti at £56 and a Chassagne Montrachet at £54. But if your wallet cannot take such a battering, there is a Sauvignon Blanc at £16.75 and a Merlot at £18.50. Unusually, but sensibly, Albert’s Table offers a small selection of wines in half bottles.

The Last Word
Make the trip to Croydon, it’s worth it. Leave your troubles at the door and pull up a chair to Albert’s Table - it comes recommended.

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