Stuck for somewhere to go on a date that will knock their socks off but won’t break your bank? Not sure where to take that special vegetarian? Seriously in need of a restaurant that reminds you how wonderful dining out can be when it’s skillful but not show-off, innovative but not ridiculous, and luxurious but not stuffy? You might want to consider this excellent new spot.

The Venue
Don’t end up wandering up and down Bond Street, deceived by The Westbury’s address; the hotel is tucked off New Bond Street, on Conduit Street. It's an upper-end boutique-style hotel all hushed, plush and softly lit. Alyn Williams' brand new restaurant is near the entrance, and sits ornately with its nature-inspired decor, from the calla lily-like door handles to the twiggy coral shapes of the wall lamps. The doors to the kitchen are tucked into an alcove that glows with a wall of square terrariums, each nurturing wild herbs or sea vegetables that feature on the menu. The carpet twinkles with gold flecks against a warm chestnutty palette of colours well suited to what's an attractive, well thought-out venue.

The Atmosphere
The service is attentive and ever ready with a silver crumb scraper, and champagne is offered upon arrival. This is certainly fine dining but the overall feel is of comfort, rather than stiffness. There are several booths lining the walls, offering the most privacy for dining and the best spots for tete-a-tete dining. Otherwise, the glass-enclosed wine cellar, complete with private dining table, puts your party right on show in the most pleasant of ways.

The Food
Some might know Alyn Williams from his hugely successful stint as head chef at Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. And after four years honing his craft he's set up on his own to showcase the kind of skill and flair that made his name.

The first thing you might notice is that vegetables are not pushed to the side of this menu. In fact, there is an entire vegetarian degustation menu available alongside the omnivorous version (both £55), and they read as interestingly and deliciously as each other. The kitchen is also a rare - and pleasingly flexible - beast in that it encourages diners to mix and match between the two tasting menus. In addition there is a three course a la carte menu (£45) that's once again available for vegetarians and omnivores.

Cherry-picking choices from both degustation menus is a good way to go, with the vegetable options being particularly pleasing, especially a silky cauliflower panna cotta dusted with grated acorn, and an intensely pleasurable plate of ravioli filled with onion puree, resting on gutsy laverbread and topped with a rings of dehydrated onion (which may sound a bit silly, but which actually turns out to be a vital addition of texture and taste).

From the omnivore’s menu snails arrive peeking out from amongst a salad of tiny chickweed sprigs and baby nasturtium leaves, apparently sprouting from a malty ‘soil’ of earthy trompette mushrooms. The effect is heightened by the dish arriving in its own little terrarium - you half expect to see live snails hanging on to the leaves and sides of the glass as the lid is removed. A glass of Sharp’s DW Ale (from the Cornish brewery that makes the wonderful Doom Bar) matches the dish with perfect malty symbiosis.

Another standout dish is the Cotswold White breast of chicken (now who’d have thought chicken breast could be a standout dish?) served with charred leeks and a revelatory smoked egg so soft it's almost a languid puddle, just waiting to be pierced to sauce the meat. The a la carte menu plays host to a smoked egg that's served with fennel, apple and - most appealing - truffled soldiers; another one to try, that’s for sure.

You could be forgiven for expecting that after a degustation of seven courses you’d be feeling a little like a roly-poly pudding, but this is not a heavy cream and butter-splashed menu, rather it's one singing with sea purslane, tiny pickled vegetables, drifts of parmesan or acorn, and snows of pine sugar. However, you may find it difficult to resist the siren song of the shining cheese trolley – in which case you've only got yourself to blame if you have to be winched home.

The Drinks
At a restaurant of this standard, in a boutique hotel such as this, the casual diner often approaches the wine list with trepidation, but the list at Alyn Williams is remarkably accessible and well-priced. There are plenty of bottles around the £30 to £40 mark, and even a few nearer to £20 (Louis Latour Chardonnay Viognier £24.50). A good range comes from the new world (Cloudy Bay to Hill of Grace) and if you'd like them to match both wine and ale to your food, they'll do it with intelligence and aplomb.

The Last Word
Alyn Williams’ venture has no sharp edges - it’s gentle, innovative yet understated, and an absolute pleasure. The tasting menus are incredibly good value and you get the feeling that every time you visit there’ll be another dish to get excited about. Which is as good an excuse as any to head back soon.

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