51-53 Camberwell Church Street,
Camberwell,
London,
SE5 8TR
(020) 7703 7953
The ViewLondon Review
Ambrosia in Camberwell is in the running for London’s unlikeliest gastronomic star. Hidden by dated decor are some of the most intricately spiced Indian dishes around.
The Venue
Ambrosia’s corner spot on Camberwell Church Street, not far from Camberwell Green and Denmark Hill, could potentially be a good one, but given the look of the restaurant from outside most people probably walk straight past – perhaps picking up a takeaway menu on the way. Inside, the small dining area lacks any kind of ornamentation and is a good decade out of date.
The Atmosphere
Considering there’s not often enough people eating in to give any kind of a buzz, the atmosphere is no reason to visit. A saviour, though, is the smell of the cooking. Upon entering, a warm aroma of roasting spices is as enticing as the surroundings are unglamorous. Service is also heartening, with staff friendly and more than willing to advise.
The Food
This is what Ambrosia is all about, and it’s reason enough to visit. The extensive menu looks much the same as that of any other Indian restaurant, but the intricacy of flavours that come through in the dishes stand out from the pack. Achaari murg tikka (£2.50) comes as slightly blackened but juicy chicken pieces, bursting with flavours from being marinated in traditional Indian pickling spices including prominent tastes of onion seeds and fennel. Bhalla papri chaat (£2) is an unusual dish which sees naan-like bread topped with mini lentil dumplings and two stunningly zingy sauces – one mint and one tamarind. Meanwhile old favourites also fare well with poppadoms (50p) crunchy and without oiliness and onion bhaji (£2) rich with a caramelised onion flavour and again completely grease-free.
Starters and main courses merge into each other and the low price tags maxing out at around £5 a dish encourage over-ordering, especially given that portions are generous. Diwani handi (£3.25) is a crunchy medley of vegetables flavoured with ajwain seeds and a fair bit of chilli. Rasedar murgh (£4.75) which translates as “home-style chicken” comes in a tomato based sauce with incredible layers of flavour, though the chicken within it is a little sparse. Pindi channa (£3.25) is a highlight, and that mere chickpeas can become such a full-flavoured dish is exemplary of the expert spicing going on Ambrosia’s kitchen. There’s a range of breads available to soak up any juicy bits, and a crisp, fluffy naan (£1.20) is certainly fit for the job, whilst pilau rice (£1.75) will also help things down.
The Drink
Ambrosia is BYO so there’s no alcohol, but they generously don’t charge corkage. Most standard soft drinks are available and there are homemade lassi on offer in sweet, salty and mango variations (£2 each) for a more traditional accompaniment. The mango variant is impressive for its fruitiness and the sight of real mango.
The Last Word
If proof was ever needed as to why you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, then Ambrosia is that proof. Great food. Great price. Shame about the decor.
Ambrosia has been reviewed by 2 users