An old-fashioned 5-star hotel with a German Michelin starred chef governing the direction of its restaurant, Apsleys is in actual fact a largely Italian affair, from the executive chef to the service staff and much of the modern menu. The result: a restaurant befitting of any occasion, no matter how grand.

The Venue
The Lanesborough Hotel sits in a dominant position on Hyde Park Corner and it conjures up visions of arriving by chauffeur driven limo. Pinch yourself though and you’ll more than likely arrive by Piccadilly Line. If that’s the case, head for exit 3, ensuring to avoid the puddles of murky unidentifiable liquid, and you’ll emerge blinking under the shadow of this magnificent hotel.

Apsleys – or Apsleys, a Heinz Beck Restaurant as its officially known - is an art deco dream: frosted partitions break up the space; three enormous circular light features cascading with glittery lights dominate the room; and a glass atrium roof lets in floods of natural light. One wall has a faux-Renaissance-style fresco which is a bit gaudy, but the rest of the room is set to impress-factor eleven.

The Atmosphere
There are lots of staff per punter, and probably a whole army of chefs in the kitchen too. One word sums up this space: occasions. Apsleys is all about celebrating occasions; from families with both well-behaved young children and doting old grannies, to couples looking to share a memorable experience. Given it feels a bit starchy and formal, the sight of some customers in their ‘comfies’ looks incongruous but they’re more than likely residents who are shelling out big money so they can dress how they please, thank you very much.

Staff are largely Italian and they’re consistently deferential, confident and knowledgeable. They’re polished in their spiel and authorities on the menu, both food and drink. On a previous visit, the service was a little too amped-up but now it’s just about the right level for this kind of establishment. Some may find it slightly off putting; others will love the theatre of it all.

The Food
The food has improved markedly since Heinz Beck lent his name to this space. You won’t find him the kitchen but his team led by executive chef Massimiliano Blasone do him proud. Previously the food was pedestrian now, at times, it’s phenomenal. Set menus make a trip accessible to mere mortals – 2 courses cost around £40 - but unfortunately this means you only have an abbreviated version of the menu available. To get the magic you need to order from the a la carte, where prices are dizzyingly high.

Moments of sheer brilliance include a plate of homemade ravioli filled with a foie gras esque rabbit. Vibrant asparagus spears are placed on top with shavings of brittle black truffle and a dab of pistachio-flavour cream. Even if you’re a massive fan of Watership Down you’ll be wolfing this down while making a mental note to add it to the best dishes you’ve ever tasted list. For main course, the beef (£38) is sealed in a bag and cooked in a water bath (sous-vide style), then seared on a hot plate, resulting in a beautifully tender cut served with piped mashed potato, wilted spinach, meaty jus, parsnip and mushrooms – another exceptional dish.

Despite the moments of gastronomic excellence, there are moments that flatter to deceive: the lobster artichoke and black truffle starter (£30) and lobster soup with liquorice (£17.50) fall surprisingly flat in terms of flavour.

Other dishes waver between good and very good: cod (cooked in the same water bath style) with red pepper and a crunchy granulated topping that tastes of smoky bacon crisps is the former; and a chocolate fondant with raspberry sauce poured into slit is the latter. The pre-dessert, a lemon-infused milk pudding with zingy sorbet and crunchy miniature meringue, is another winner.

The Drink
One of the sommeliers has worked at Michelin-starred establishments in Italy. This results in some classic Italian options like the Langhe Nebbiolo (£48) but the recommendation of a lesser known tipple, the Jermann Pignacolusse, is superb – a spicy, full-bodied red with muddled prune and chocolate flavours, it leaves you purring with every mouthful.

Glasses of Laurent Perrier Rose (£22) are offered as an aperitif and these are popular with guests even if they’ll quickly bump your bill up. They also have an impressive cognac list and coffees for afters are served with handmade chocolates.

The Last Word
The world of Michelin stars is a very shadowy one but Apsleys crystalises what’s required at the top-end - pin-sharp service, cooking of surgical precision and premium ingredients. If you need a dinner table for a very special occasion, Apsleys comes highly recommended.

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