Will Smith and Anthony Demetre’s first London restaurant burst onto the Soho scene back in 2006. Five years (and a new lick of paint) on, Arbutus is still serving brilliant Michelin starred food in a manner that feels so deliciously Soho.

The Venue
Looking understated and unshowy on Frith Street, if ever a venue looked comfortable in its surroundings, it’s Arbutus. And that extends inside too, with an amusingly tongue in cheek bit of glad-handing from the front of house that immediately sets the tone for somewhere a world away from the claustrophobic stuffiness of similarly vaunted restaurants. That’s not to say things aren’t cosy though, with tables that can be pretty close together and service coming from a set of stairs that aren’t exactly in the kindest of places for staff negotiating wandering diners. They do so admirably though, waltzing elegantly through a restaurant that’s almost minimal, with swathes of pristine white perked up by judicious artwork, a smattering of expensive marble and large windows offering views of Soho life as it fizzes along outside.

Atmosphere
It’s a small enough for space for things to feel personal, and although some might come over a little haughty at their proximity to fellow diners, others will note how well it works to create an animated atmosphere – there’s no music, and none seems needed. The charm at the front of house extends through to the rest of the staff (even if some can be a little quiet), with a clientele ranging from young couples, business types and tourists being handled with the kind of deft composure that can only come from a team that knows what it’s doing.

The Food
There may be a Michelin pinned to their lovely lapel, but this is accessible and surprisingly affordable cooking that puts an emphasis on seasonality, so expect a menu that changes regularly, even if there are a few old faithfuls that have cemented their place through popularity.

A terrine of slow-cooked crisp pig’s head (£7.50) is a brilliant place to start, the earthy depth and delicious inconsistency of the meat working well with the freshness of a crisp salad comprising lettuce, shredded raw cabbage and impossibly thin cucumber. A tiny little dollop of mustard mayonnaise could perhaps do with a touch more kick, but no matter. A salad of ‘late season Sicilian peach’ with crushed tomatoes and white beans (£7.50) are a testament to seasonality, with the incredibly fresh slices of peach impressive enough on their own, even before they’re married to their complementary kith.

The veal with Italian greens, olive oil and parmesan (£15.95) showcases not only quality provenance but also some delicate hands in the kitchen, with a generous cutlet slow-cooked to keep it impressively tender. Pick, perhaps, of the mains though, comes in the form of a saddle of Norfolk hare (again, kept surprisingly tender - £16.95). The accompanying celeriac, girolle mushrooms and candied walnuts add a bit of substance, but it’s the pickled pears laced with cinnamon that really set the meat off, offering some delicious acidity, sweetness and spice to the hearty depth of the game.

A good selection of cheeses (£3.50 each) include a brilliant Epoisses that almost undulates on the plate, but it’s the desserts that are perhaps most tempting. If you can’t quite face doing battle with the exquisite cold chocolate fondant with salted caramel ice cream (£6.95) then the English plum crumble (£6.95) is less saccharine. Served cold, it’s got the balance between the tartness of the plum and the rich buttery sweetness of the (generous) crumble absolutely spot on.

The Drinks
With many restaurants jumping on the by-the-glass bandwagon, it’s interesting to note that Arbutus has been offering an accessible wine list ever since it opened, with nearly every bottle on a varied list being available by the 250ml carafe. Primarily ideal for matching, it’s also a great facility for those looking to do a little bit of exploration.

Options go from a perfectly affordable Chilean Merlot at £16.50 for the bottle (or £5.50 for the carafe) up to a Barbaresco from Piedmont at £185. There really is plenty in between though, with special mention going to a very good Gavi di Gavi (also from Piedmont - £40 and £13.50) and a Montepulciano from the Villamedoro family at a very reasonable £28, or £9.50 for the carafe.

The Last Word
Les Deux Salons and Wild Honey may have stolen the limelight somewhat but you get the feeling Arbutus is still the jewel in Smith and Demetre’s crown. A very good restaurant serving very good food.

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