12a Belsize Terrace,
Belsize Park,
London,
NW3 4AX
0871 971 7168
The ViewLondon Review
My informant tells me that Artigiano has a reputation amongst the residents of Belsize Village for serving the best food in the area. Film makers, actors, TV execs, big media cheeses, these are the types who know a bistecca from a burger. And what excellent taste they have.
Smart, spotless, modern, Artigiano is filled most nights with the contented buzz that forms naturally around a group of like-minded locals.
Its unusual design is shaped a bit like an angular waterfall, or three very large steps, with the entrance at the top, the kitchen at the bottom, while a blue-lit walkway across the more private second floor adds an unexpected hint of fun.
Propped-up by silky cushions on the entrance-floor corner banquette, glancing at diners come and go, I happen to be sitting in the best seat in the restaurant. Which explains why a few envious glances have been thrown this way. Apparently this window-facing banquette inspires one-upmanship amongst those in the know.
Soon my attention is absorbed instead by the menu. Every modern Italian dish sounds so good that I find it hard to choose, but eventually order a generous portion of slowly matured Parma ham with melon - a triumph. As was my friend’s lightly spiced sautéed Cornish squid. Each twirling a glass of easy house red, we say lots of nice things about our starters.
My grilled sirloin steak and sautéed potatoes arrive with a smile. I tuck into the tender cut draped in a piquant sauce, and side orders of buttery deep fried courgettes and lovely squidgy spinach which taste so very, well… green.
Two hours on and my friend and I are sharing a warm chocolate fondant with vanilla sauce. “Dig in,” we’re encouraged. We oblige with pleasure. The instant the sponge is tasted it dissolves into the same consistency as the sauce. Yum.
Should you find yourself wondering about the Oscar - yes it’s genuine, and was given to the restaurant by a regular awarded it for the cinematography of Mississippi Burning. OK, so Artigiano didn’t win it, but the symbolism is there – this residential restaurant is a winner.
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