There is, it appears, joy at the end of the 'misery line'. A touch of poetic licence perhaps, as Belsize Park is not at the very end of the Northern Line, but it’s a fair way up, and Artigiano ('The Craftsman') makes it well worth the trek.

The Venue
Artigiano’s narrow frontage opens right out, so if you can grab one of the three tables just inside you get all the effects of alfresco dining. But the whole restaurant (which descends to another level at the back) is light and airy, an effect enhanced by brass fittings, off-white walls, lots of greenery and a mirrored wall. A glazed atrium gives views of leafy Belsize Park, whilst colourflow lighting washes the restaurant in subtle pastel hues and adds a touch of romance.

The Atmosphere
On a Thursday evening, the restaurant fills up fast. The window tables are quickly bagged by twenty-somethings anxious to see and be seen; a party of happy Germans greet each other with glee, and regulars settle contentedly into their favourite tables.

The Food
Artigiano could easily become a firm favourite; it serves authentic Italian food with finesse. A complimentary platter of three different kinds of bread, with oil for dipping and miniature bruschettas — how can something as simple as tomato and basil on toast be so tasty? — is brought over with your drinks order. The waiters are straight out of central casting — all smouldering eyes and macho moustaches — with easy charm and genuine enthusiasm.

And there's plenty to be enthusiastic about. A starter of warm goat’s cheese with roasted fennel and orange and honey braised onion (£8.80) is beautifully balanced. The cheese is creamy with just the right tang from the goat, the aniseed of the fennel is mild and sweet and the onion, which melts together like a marmalade, is gutsy but not overpowering. It's delightfully presented, too, the plate decorated with a balsamic reduction to look like a work of art. A potent garlic sauce with gnocchi, artichokes, cherry tomatoes and squid (£9 or £12.50 as a main) also manages to be delicate, despite its punch. The squid is possibly slightly overcooked, but is full of flavour, whilst the gnocchi is feather-light, with the tomatoes adding a touch of sweetness.

Artigiano’s head chef Tiziano Invernizzi clearly understands how to complement. Thus a perfectly seared tuna steak is served with a light salad of oranges, pink grapefruit and fennel (£18). The zing of the citrus offsets the meaty fish, while the fennel, served raw and thinly sliced, adds crunch. But the chef also knows when to leave well alone and let the food speak for itself. So escalopes of veal are dressed in a lemon sauce (£16.50) and require no further fussing. Beer-battered tempura prawns with a honey chilli sauce (£17.80) are just magnificent — jumbo shellfish in a delicate batter with a dip that bites back. Sides of crunchy rosemary sauteed potatoes (£2.50) and deep-fried courgette (£3.75) are faultless, unless you’re a dietician.

Puddings include a vanilla panna cotta, accompanied by a coffee sauce and a fragile coconut biscuit (£6.50). The panna cotta is silken and creamy without being sickly, but the coffee sauce could have a bit more of a kick. There are no 'ifs or buts' with the chocolate fondant — light-as-air sponge with a dark and glossy puddle of oozing chocolate sauce in the middle (£6.60). Almost as good is the strawberry sorbet that it comes with — it tastes of summer.

The Drink
Any wine buff will tell you that the best whites come from Sicily, which would seem borne out by an Arpeggio Bianco, a very good deal at £14.50 or £4 a glass. It’s light and dry and perfect for early summer sipping. The red version is the same price. Artigiano’s extensive list also includes a Falanghina (£26.50), an up-and-coming grape that is earning well-deserved plaudits. As well as Italian, the list includes wines from Austria, Spain, South America, Australia and England’s own award-winning Baccus. There is a wide selection of wines served by the glass and six (three white and three red) offered by the half bottle. A prosecco is £28.50, while house Champagne is a Baron de Marck Brut at £35.

The Last Word
This little Italian is an elegant restaurant serving delicious food that is well-flavoured, superbly cooked and beautifully presented — there's definitely 'art' in this particular craftsman.

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