Asmara Restaurant

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386 Coldharbour Lane,
Brixton,
London,
SW9 8LF

0871 971 7185
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byBryony Clare Collingwood08/03/2011
Stumble upon this Brixton gem and enjoy home-cooked North African cuisine in a bustling, informal setting.

The Venue
You could walk straight past this small restaurant and completely miss it, located halfway down Coldharbour Lane not far from the busy Brixton High Street. However were the door to open, you’d be drawn in by the mouthwatering scents of hot, spicy food. Tables and chairs are crammed into this cosy restaurant, which is warmed by the cooking in the nearby kitchen. This restaurant is not all about presentation, yet a little care has gone into giving it a more traditional Eritrean look with African artefacts, paintings and maps on the walls. Booking is recommended as although it may seem hidden away, there’s a steady flow of diners all eager to find a table and happy to wait for as long as it will take.

The Atmosphere
Stepping into Asmara feels a little like you have entered someone else’s living room with the instant family feel and relaxed atmosphere of diners. Service is helpful yet busy periods make it a lot slower, so prepare to wait a little while.

The Food
If you’re new to Eritrean food, then the menu may take a little bit of guessing, though there are set menus available if you’re happy to try a few dishes. It consists of spicy stews and vegetable dishes that can be eaten with rice or the traditional enjera. The latter is a flat, sour dough type pancake with a light, spongy texture. This is spread across a large, flat bowl upon which your choice of main dishes are served and from which you all eat - almost like a shared plate of Spanish tapas. Each dish is then brought over and spread by the waiter on to the enjera. The idea is that you then eat your mains using torn-off parts of the enjera - be prepared to get messy fingers! This is surprisingly filling so it may be worth choosing less dishes than you think and adding to it further into your meal.

A few favourites include zigni fitfit - a spiced lamb curry with diced enjera, which gives it a chunky texture and soaks up a lot of the sauce. You can choose it mild or spicy, depending on your own preference. There’s also Derho curry made with chicken on the bone, and this has a rich, spiced flavour but it may be tricky to eat if you’re not accustomed to using a flat pancake for cutlery. There’s also a range of vegetable dishes, including chickpeas and spinach made with home-made cheese which adds a lovely creamy, salty flavour to the dish. Each dish ranges between £5 and £8. If you can fit in dessert, there is yoghurt and honey or even popcorn for a final snack.

The Drink
The drinks menu is less traditional than the mains, serving classic European beers and a small selection of wines (priced about £17 per bottle). There are also the usual soft drinks on offer. There are rumours that Asmara serves traditional coffee by wafting the scent of roasted coffee beans around the room before pouring. However, like the rumour of complimentary popcorn, this restaurant may not always adhere to these rules.

The Last Word
If you want to try something a little different from the usual chain restaurants that fill London’s streets, then pay Asmara a visit for tasty spicy food, casual dining and a fun eating experience.
Asmara Restaurant has been reviewed by 1 users

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