Aubergine, under the supervision of head chef William Drabble, has long been a favourite in Chelsea. After years of celebrating its Michelin-starred success, it’s clear the standards are just as high as they’ve always been.

The Venue
Located on Park Walk off Fulham Road in Chelsea, passersby are introduced to the restaurant by a short maroon awning and large, dark wood doors with golden aubergines for handles. Inside, the restaurant is on the small side, with a comfortable lounge area at the front and the dining area towards the rear. Whilst the main theme is neutral colours, here and there are splashes of purple, from the table covers to the edge of the plates. On the silverware are small, raised aubergines; whilst it’s easy to go overboard on the whole aubergine theme the restaurant has wisely reined in the urge to sprinkle them on everything so instead the effect is sweet instead of over the top.

The Atmosphere
Above all, this is a French restaurant, so don’t be surprised if you spot a couple conversing fluently in French with the staff. Couples seem to be the main clientele as well, and, like the decor, the atmosphere is romantic but in an almost casual way, so you wouldn’t feel out of place on a lunch date in the middle of the week. It starts to fill up later in the evening, but the amiable, competent staff never lose their stride.

The Food
Chef William Drabble’s French cuisine has won him a Michelin star, although like many restaurants of similar standing, you have to pay for the privilege. A three course menu is £68, which, although it might not startle the locals, will probably necessitate some saving. The seven course tasting menu is available for just £10 more (£132 total with wine) and there’s a nicely priced lunch menu at £29 for three courses or £34 for three courses and half a bottle of house wine.

A simple, light amuse bouche of beetroot and goat’s cheese begins the evening nicely. Starters include monkfish carpaccio, which is sliced into the thinnest of slivers and dressed with a lemon vinaigrette. For an ordinarily meaty fish, the monkfish works really well in carpaccio form, and the lemon flavours make it seem even more delicate, whilst scattered pieces of samphire add colour and mix the texture up a bit. Assiette of foie gras is prepared three different ways: in a salty, earthy terrine; in a light mousse with succulent girolle mushrooms and salty potato sticks; and seared, topped with liquor-soaked figs with a thin, dark, crisp bread underneath. This is the ultimate dish if you’re a lover of foie gras as it really highlights the different aspects of the dish’s flavours and lets you experience different ways it can be served.

From the main dishes, the John Dory is excellently prepared and well seasoned; although the fish is delicate a scattering of girolle mushrooms gives the dish depth. Scottish rib eye, on the other hand, is much more robust dish, with the meat so tender that you can tell it’s been aged properly. This comes with a port wine reduction, thick and sweet without being syrupy, and horseradish cream, which melts into the sauce and gives everything a hint of fresh, sharp flavours.

Desserts at Aubergine include an apricot souffle with chocolate sauce, an incredibly airy, almost fluffy dish with a tangy flavour. Dark chocolate sauce, poured from a separate dish, really makes the taste of the apricot stand out. Mint mousse with chocolate jelly is appropriately minty, but instead of the After Eight taste you might be expecting it’s much lighter and less cloying – a good pudding if you don’t like overly sugary desserts. The cheese cart is also extraordinary, with about 15 different cheeses from Britain and France on display. If you’re too full to manage to sample any of it, the scents wafting from the cart as it’s rolled from table to table are almost as satisfying.

The Drink
The wine list here is extensive, with several pages devoted to specific French regions. Options by the glass start from £5.50, whilst bottles range from several options in the twenty pound range to well into the thousands. Cousimo Macul, a 2007 Chilean sauvignon blanc, is a light and fruity wine that blends well with the monkfish starter, whilst the 2007 Petit Chablis chardonnay is much deeper and earthier, perfect for the foie gras. From the reds, the 2003 Solen Coteaux du Languedoc (£6.50 per glass and £38 per bottle) is a good match for both fish and meat, as it’s neither too light nor too heavy, but instead well balanced with the flavour of red berries. Fans of sweet wine should ask for the Muscat de Rivesaltes, a golden wine with a strong, flowery taste.

The Last Word
There is a reason that, after 15 years in business, Aubergine is still doing so well – they’re even planning on opening a sister restaurant in a Buckinhamshire hotel. Although the prices here are high you won't regret paying them, although you might want to save your meal for a special occasion.

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