Tottering distance from Harrods, the Kensington Hotel nestles amid the elegant stucco facades of its neighbours, a jewel in a highly polished crown. As well as one of London’s great landmarks, it is home to the Aubrey Restaurant.

The Venue
Named after Aubrey de Vere, who was granted the Estate of Kensington by William the Conqueror, the restaurant redefines the word “sumptuous” and is cunningly designed to be reduced or extended on demand. The first section, with its lofty ceilings and parquet floors, is rather like dining in the library of a country manor, while double doors open into a larger space, with a further room behind. This last can seat up to 30 people as a private room or be used as part of the main restaurant if demand dictates.

The Atmosphere
On a rainy evening in September, however, the restaurant is almost empty, although it was reportedly busy the night before. But although only three other tables are occupied, the ambience is cosy and relaxed, with attentive but not intrusive service. The quiet decor reinforces the “country home” atmosphere, with the larger restaurant area sealed off – out of sight and out of mind.

The Food
It is no surprise that the executive chef, John Wood – who designed Aubrey's menus – has a Michelin star, except perhaps that it is only one. And head chef Russell Ford is no slouch either; he has travelled extensively in Europe and it shows in the eclectic cooking. Every dish – from the delicate amuse bouche of confit duck, served on a slate coaster, to the elegantly presented cheese board – is beautifully thought-out.

The only slightly wrong note with the starters is the black olive puree served with the seared tuna. This is rather salty and overpowering, even for this most flavoursome fish. The bean and tomato salad that also accompanies it is, however, spot on. No such misstep with the seared scallops, though. If you’re a little tired of pea puree – or the more recently in-vogue cauliflower – look no further, Aubrey serves them with a red pepper puree. Its sweetness marries with, rather than complements, the bivalve.

An unusual accompaniment comes with a perfectly cooked rump of lamb (£23) in the guise of fennel, whose aniseed-y sweetness combines nicely with the meat. A hint of aniseed can be found, too, with a meaty fillet of halibut (£22); the delicate fish sauce is made with star anise, dill and ginger. Both mains come with potatoes, creamy fondant with the former and crab croquettes with the latter. Sides are available, but the main dishes appear to be so well judged as to render them unnecessary.

Somewhat redundant, too, is an Aladdin’s lamp of cream that comes with a coconut pudding (£6.50). Closer to home are the cheeses on the aforementioned board (£10.50), including a creamy Stilton, a delightfully subtle goat’s cheese and an earthy cheddar, presented on slate with apples, oatcakes and grapes. A Bowen’s Folly late-harvest Riesling goes nicely with both, and is a steal at £8 a glass.

The Drink
Aubrey’s extensive wine list offers something for everyone and is clearly set out. The house champagne is, unusually, a Perrier Jouet, which looks good value at £55. There is also a prosecco at £35, or if you’ve just bashed the plastic at Harrods, you might as well order the Krug at £210. Slightly more sensibly, the house white is Errazurriz, a Chilean Chardonnay, at £20. Somewhere between the two, though, is a glorious organic Chardonnay called Bonterra, rich and smooth and worth every penny.

The Last Word
Aubrey offers a delightful dining experience, serving beautiful food in elegant surroundings. Put down your shopping, take the weight off your feet and let Aubrey cosset you.

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