33 Dover Street,
Mayfair,
London,
W1S 4NF
0871 971 4046
The ViewLondon Review
Bringing an elegant Americanism to the heart of London, this upmarket diner-style restaurant has become the casually cool place to dine in the often far more formal area of Mayfair.The VenueDover Street is busy and bustling with business – fashion and finance dominate the deals being struck and the conversations made. Entering Automat is an extension of this.
Buzzing with chatter made louder by the polished white-tiled walls, the first area you walk through is packed with tables and chairs for the lucky walk-ins who managed to bag a window view. Notice the bottles of Merlot with Marilyn Monroe labels displayed above the minimalist bar before you reach the second area – a diner-car dining space with comfy leather booths. This leads to the main restaurant with a long bar where smoothies and shakes are served and the light from the back garden streams through the full-length windows.
The AtmosphereTrendy, unkempt Euro-types congregate at the bar, whilst Sloane girls gossip in the booths and business meetings and birthdays take place in the main restaurant. This ensures a lively, eclectic atmosphere that all London venues should excel at, but many don’t. Whatever you wear, you won’t feel out of place at Automat and the hosts are indiscriminate in their friendliness.
The FoodThe burgers at Automat are almost as good as you’d expect from an American brasserie - hearty with a crisp bun and melt-in-the-mouth gherkins, although a little extra salad to stave off guilty feelings wouldn’t go amiss – particularly as the fries can be a little salty. Unfortunately, the side of coleslaw can be bland and tasteless, which is a pity. However, the menu offers plenty of enticing choices - the steak is tender and the garlic mash is moreish. Best of all, prices are decent for the upmarket location coming in at around £40 without wine for two.
The DrinkAlthough the coke can be a little syrupy and flat, the glorious chocolate shake that Automat excels at makes a decent substitute. There’s also an extensive wine and Champagne list to keep the Mayfair locals happy.
The Last WordAutomat will no doubt continue to be a firm lunch and early dinner favourite with the local W1 crowd due to its attitude free atmosphere and plentiful portions. Whilst it is definitely worth a visit, it’s not an exceptional enough dining experience to warrant booking for a special occasion.