Recently refurbished and with a new head chef at the stoves, Axis at the One Aldwych hotel has upped its game in a bid for a slice of Theatreland’s recent surge in popularity.

The Venue
A below ground space it may be, but nobody could accuse Axis at One Aldwych of presenting anything less than its best face to arriving customers. A marble-clad entranceway that screams refined luxury follows a spiral staircase down into a mezzanine bar before filtering into the restaurant’s main room. Here a dramatic wall mural has been tamed by a series of thin, bronze-coloured wooden pillars reaching up towards the ceiling to create a striking visual focal point.

The Atmosphere
Just as elsewhere in this upscale hotel’s bar and restaurant offering, the clientele is a mature 30+ crowd of sophisticated business and leisure visitors who seem to appreciate the low-key, high-luxe interior design approach. Tables are well spaced and the service is of the silent yet effective variety, meaning diners are allowed to get on with their conversations without distraction.

The Food
A strongly British-influenced menu from chef Tony Fleming comes in towards the upper end of London’s restaurant price spectrum but, in its defence, plays heavily off both seasonality and provenance of ingredients. Deep friend duck egg is cooked to unctuous perfection and comes with chunks of smokey hamhock and a sweet honey dressing. Dorset crab with cucumber and herb salad meanwhile, is always going to be a quietly flavoured dish, but could perhaps benefit from more generous seasoning to truly bring the white crabmeat out of its shell.

A main course of Denham Estate venison with red cabbage and parsnip puree is a solid success. This quintessentially autumnal combo is served in its original state, rather than some 21st century re-interpretation, and is all the better for it. Similarly, a meaty chunk of roast monkfish served with tangy globe artichoke and fennel has more of an Italian feel to it, but equally played off the quality of its seasonal vegetables for success.

Desserts include a blackberry souffle and lemon tart, both of which are technically sound but lack any suggestion of the intense fruitiness they might be capable of.

The Drink
In line with Axis at One Aldwych’s target market, the wine list is both comprehensive and fairly top-heavy. A generous number of bottles are available by the glass however, typically for around £6.00 - £7.00. Whites are perfectly balanced between French, Southern European and New World options, while the reds have a strong French slant that stretches from an entry level Beaujolais at £25.00, right up to a Chateau Petrus 1971 at £1,120.

The Last Word
A discreet, elegant dining option located on Theatreland’s periphery, the revamped Axis may shun the bright lights of Broadway but has the potential to be a slow-burning hit nonetheless.

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