In the case of Hoxton’s Bacchus, the name doesn’t tell the whole story: there is much more to this much-loved pub and dining room than wine and debauchery.

The Venue
If you think Bacchus is in Hoxton Square, think again: Hoxton Street, the road Bacchus is actually on, stretches quite a distance away from the infamous area before you are in sight of this gastro. However, the fact that the venue is not in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the square is a positive thing as it allows the venue to go about its business without being overrun by the weekend warriors who swarm around neighbouring Old Street. And, even though it is hip and cool, this place doesn’t go over-the-top with decor or attitude, a rare thing in this neck of the woods.

Successfully blending conservation of the building it’s housed in with innovation, the venue has retained the old wood paneling and floor but it has introduced contemporary decorative elements. Columns painted in black and covered in poetry, a red retro lamp sitting on top of an old safe, a semi-circular couch, a rocking chair, striking contemporary prints with Victorian imagery and more quirky details truly bring the place to life. Chairs and tables are mixed and matched freely to create an informal atmosphere and great importance is paid to the lighting. The ceiling is filled with industrial lamps in brushed metal but these are only turned on when needed, leaving red lamps and orange bulbs secured in scattered light shades to emanate soft lighting.

The Atmosphere
Hoxton, in general, can be painfully, self-consciously cool and somewhat over saturated, but Bacchus, thanks to its location, manages to escape the contrived pretentiousness you see elsewhere. In fact, this venue attracts an amazingly varied clientele: middle aged people come in for a relaxed meal and mix with cute couples and young groups sipping beer at the bar. The chilled electronic music may seem targeted to a younger audience, but those in their fifties do not seem to mind at all. If you add delightful and attentive staff, the resulting atmosphere is palpably welcoming for all.

The Food
Everything else about this venue is very good, but the real surprise is the food as its remarkable not only for its taste but also for its ethics. The menu, strictly seasonal, aims to be of manageable length and to support local businesses: all the fish is delivered in the evening from Fishery in Stoke Newington, who in turn get their fish from Billinsgate market, whilst the meat is sourced via a local butcher guaranteeing its environmental sustainability and low food miles. The dishes themselves display the best of traditional British cuisine with some twists.

For starters (£4.50-£6.50), the chilli and garlic king prawns served with saffron aioli are undeniably fresh, cooked very well and generous in quantity. Alternatively, the pear and spinach salad is somewhat of a surprise. Dressed to perfection with tangy vinegar, the mix of spinach, rocket, red onion and pears balances the sharp (the vinegar and onion) and delicate (pear) flavours.

When it comes to mains (£9-£16), the devil is truly in the detail. The sea bass with caper and parsley dressing and sauteed new potatoes is excellent as it is but it reaches new heights thanks to the confit of cherry tomatoes (still served on their vine) and the charred lemon.

The roasted butternut squash (£12) - simply cooked to perfection - literally falls out of its skin and its delicate taste is set off by a wonderfully flavourful stew-like lentil and wild rice salad.

Onto desserts (£4-6) and the lemon posset served with butter biscuits and redcurrants is a tribute to British traditions and it is tangy and yet very creamy and indulgently thick. The lemon sorbet margarita, instead, is very refreshing and is ideal as a digestive after a large meal. If you have a sweet tooth try the chocolate fondant with almaniac and prune ice cream, it’s never off the menu for a good reason – there'd be a riot from regulars.

The Drink
The wine list is attractive and extensive, with over two dozen bottles (£3.40-£8.50 for a 175ml glass or £14-£64 for a bottle) to choose from, all described in written detail by an obvious connoisseur. There is also a profusion of sparkling options to choose from, starting for the cheaply priced Australian Willowglen (£17.50) and rising sharply to peak at the infamous Bollinger Grande Annee 1999 (£120).

Dessert wines (£22-£24) are also available alongside a good selection of spirits. Rum (£3-£6.50 for 25ml) is given special consideration but the English theme of this gastropub is more evident in the vodka selection, since you can order Chase English potato vodka. Further astute selections are evident across the spirits, with the sustainable trend visible thanks to Juniper Green organic gin.

Due to limited space the beer selection is short and sweet. Bottles (£3.30-£3.50) include Peroni, Corona, Leffe, Budvar, Hoeggarden and others, while on draught (£3-£3.50) Heineken and Amstel, Aspall’s, Guinness and London Pride are all solid options.

The Last Word
Bacchus is the sort of pub you’d like to have around the corner from your home. It is not only welcoming and visually stimulating, it also serves up great food, making this space an ideal alternative to your own living room.

View®  Card offers venue information venue map view london review user reviews (5) image gallery (4) book a table