98-100 Church Street,
Stoke Newington,
London,
N16 0AP
(020) 7249 6553
The ViewLondon Review
The third jewel in Il Bacio’s crown on Stoke Newington Church Street marks a step away from its usual pizza and pasta fare. Passers-by might not be enticed by the kitsch decor but look beyond that and there’s some delicious fish and seafood to be sampled.
The Venue
Located on bustling Church Street, Bacio Mare doubles as a fish restaurant with a downstairs cocktail and wine bar. Tables at the front overlook the street whilst the back area is larger and more convivial. The decor is kitsch and rather eclectic, with American-style diner seats, chandeliers, black and white photos and ‘50s beach scenes.
The Atmosphere
Even if just a few tables are occupied it doesn’t seem to spoil the atmosphere, thanks to a warm, friendly staff and soundtrack which, while upbeat, is probably a bit too loud for diners trying to have a quiet conversation. Those looking for a more energetic night out should pop along on a Friday and Saturday when DJs are on hand to liven things up.
The Food
The focus of the menu is most certainly on seafood and fish with no meat or vegetarian dishes listed on the menu. The staff are very accommodating though and you get the impression that they would be more than happy to rustle you up something non-fishy upon request. The menu is updated regularly. Choose between around half a dozen options for starters and mains, as well as an extensive list of daily specials. Highlights include smoked salmon with asparagus or seafood salad among the starters and spaghetti with prawns and mussels. Prices are very reasonable too, especially given that each dish includes a side order, at between £8 and £14 for a main course.
A complimentary bread basket bursting with salt-studded ciabatta and paper-thin Sardinian bread gets the evening off to a promising start. Service is prompt and a tuna steak arrives exactly as ordered. It’s a generous portion and perfectly seasoned, accompanied with a delicious garlic, lemon and fresh rosemary sauce. It comes with a warm salad of French beans and red onions that makes the perfect accompaniment. The dessert list revolves around Italian classics such as zabaglione, tiramisu, tartufo nero and panna cotta, all priced at £5.
The Drink
Bacio Mare is certainly working hard to lure in drinkers rather than just diners. The extensive wine list has two pages dedicated to Sardinian reds and whites and the cocktail list covers everything from bellinis to mojitos, caipirinhas to cosmopolitans. Prices are good too – £3.65 for a glass of crisp, dry house white or £5.50 for a cocktail. Special offers on drinks change nightly. Smile sweetly and you might even get a free limoncello.
The Last Word
Bacio Mare might well be torn between being a fish restaurant and a bar but that doesn’t stop it from serving a good range of fresh, tasty and hearty dishes that will encourage you to pay a return visit.
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