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The Londoner's Guide to London
16 October 2008
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Baltic

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74 Blackfriars Road,
Southwark,
London,
SE1 8HA

(020) 7928 1111 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review bySimon Lazarus30/11/2007
From the stable of Wodka and Chez Kristof in Hammersmith, Baltic is a striking venue delivering a range of cuisine across the Adriatic coast.

The Venue
Baltic is located in the happening South Bank just off the Cut and Blackfriars Road. It’s a short distance from both Southwark tube station on the Jubilee Line and one of London’s main stations in Waterloo with easy access to train links. Open since Summer 2001, this is owner Jan Woroniecki’s second restaurant and has been remodeled on the original building - a late eighteenth century coachbuilder premises. Separate from the main restaurant, the whole venue has been painstakingly designed by architect Seth Stein whilst trying to maintain its original character and features. The Amber Bar is sleek, sultry and has light touches of modernist design featuring spot lighting, dark tops and industrial wall partitions with exposed features that create a great setting, perfect for an after dinner drink.

The Atmosphere
With many people coming from the nearby South Bank, Baltic is well frequented by high flying businessmen and low flying upstanding citizens. People spill in at various times depending on how hard they have worked and how late they have to stay in the office. A positively refreshing vibe and laid back service means the environment is slow paced and unpretentious.

The Food
Bar food includes some tasty morsels of that typical of Russian cuisine, blinis. Try the aubergine and mushroom moose or the marinated herring blinis, which will fill the smallest of gaps. Other highlights include an interesting Siberian Pelemini - small dumplings with veal and pork - or the melange of lamb and beef meatballs served with a sharp plum sauce that’ll soon get your tastebuds jumping for joy.
The Polish sausage is lightly grilled and comes with beautiful peppers, which look as attractive as a Russian doll. The peppers are braised and retain a lot of their flavour and are finished with potatoes and a sour cream dip. With most dishes coming under £8 this is a pretty reasonable asking price. Desserts include a fantastic use of that Russian stalwart vodka infused in a honey ice cream with caramalised nuts. The kick from the vodka comes through at the finish like a well bred racehorse. You can also nibble on a white chocolate cheesecake finished with zest orange and raisins.

The Drink
With a vodka list as big as Tolstoy’s War and Peace it would be sinful not try a glass or two. There are over 30 choices to select. The Ruski Standart and Alo Altai are grainier whereas the Reyka is more rye based. Try some of the Baltic flavoured vodkas including a Karmelowka with hints of caramel or the Koperkowa, which has an aroma of dill. There are also some interesting beers and ciders on offer. Sample the Finnish blond beer called Lapin Kulta or the Polish duo of Tyksie and Lech, which are a marriage made in heaven. Full of body and character is the Estonian blend Le Coq Viru. The choice is so diverse there is even a cider from Britanny called Cidre Breton.

There is a respectable choice of long, short and martini drinks too, featuring a Raspberry Mule incorporating wyborawa wodka lightly shaken with a puree of raspberry, lime juice and sugar, rounded off with ginger beer. The ginger and lime work well as a combination. Another option would be to go for the interestingly titled Cujito with cucumber vodka, fresh sprigs of mint, and invigorating cinnamon syrup, with a good use of fresh organic apple juice topped off with soda water.

The Last Word
A diverse choice of premium vodkas with exotic ingredients and a restaurant serving up a feast of Adriatic cuisine ensures that the Baltic has hit the nail on the head and is one of the must see South Bank venues.
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