412-416 St John Street,
Islington,
London,
EC1V 4NJ
(020) 7278 7565
The ViewLondon Review
The Islington branch of Banana Tree Canteen serves fast Oriental dishes in a sleek, modern setting.
The Venue
Banana Tree Canteen is a minute’s walk from Sadler’s Wells Theatre and Angel Tube Station. Functional chic best describes the decor. It’s clean, simple and mostly grey, with factory-style lamps and slate tiles. Large windows at the front of the restaurant look out onto the busy traffic of St John Street. Dark wood tables and benches are well spaced apart, preserving the communal informality of a canteen-style restaurant without feeling cramped.
The Atmosphere
The crowd here is young: students, groups of friends, couples, and people dining alone. It’s a casual and relaxed place, with a fast turnaround - people tend to stop in for a quick bite rather than staying for the evening. Service is swift, but the staff are friendly and attentive and won’t make you feel rushed.
The Food
Thai, Malaysian, Vietnamese and Japanese dishes all feature on the menu. Starters range from £3 - £5. For mains, there are soup noodles, fried noodle and rice dishes, ranging from £6 to £8, or you can order the Banana Tree Main Course (priced between £8 - £10), which includes one main dish of your choice and a set variety of accompaniments. Curries, stir fries and teriyaki dishes are priced between £6 - £9.
Laksa soup with rice noodles, served in a huge white bowl, is creamy but has a good kick of chilli from the sambal paste floating on top. Slabs of soft aubergine, prawns, chicken and tofu, and plenty of rolled laksa leaf complete this satisfying version of the dish. The Malaysian seafood curry, ordered with a set of accompaniments, is aromatic and rather heavy. The spiciness of the red curry paste is offset by a large dose of coconut and cream. It’s packed with intense flavours of chilli, garlic and turmeric, although the actual seafood count is rather low. The prawns aren’t overcooked, keeping a tender texture, alongside squid rings, pieces of skin-on salmon, bite size vegetables and tofu. Steamed jasmine rice is a well-portioned, fragrant accompaniment, but the sweetcorn cakes, made with coriander, are rather dry and bready. The glass noodle salad with cucumber and raw beansprouts tastes cool and fresh, but there’s a bit too much soy dressing.
The Drink
There are several Asian lagers to choose from, including Tsing Tsao and Tiger. The small international wine list starts from £10.95 a bottle. Or you could grab a freshly-made raw juice, such as apple and carrot, for around £3.
The Last Word
Banana Tree Canteen is a simply but effectively styled express Oriental eatery. Its emphasis on authentic flavours and ingredients makes it a good place for a quick lunch, or a low-key dinner before heading to a theatre or bar.
Banana Tree has been reviewed by 3 users