Banners is Crouch End’s most popular eatery. Part American-style diner, part cafe bar – it’s famous for its hangover-busting weekend brunches and celebrity regulars.

The Venue
Situated in the heart of Crouch End, this small neighbourhood restaurant feels crowded when the place is packed, especially at the front if people are eating at the narrow bar. At the back it’s darker and there are pleasantly private tables for two. The walls are covered with pop memorabilia, mostly newspaper cuttings and gig advertisements. One table is dedicated to Bob Dylan who ate a burger there and praised it in a magazine.

The Atmosphere
By day it is a haven for parents, who sip lattes while their youngsters down Brown Cow milk shakes and doodle with the crayons doled out on entry. Despite excellent child-friendly credentials, Banners maintains a grown-up feel – something to do with the extensive list of rums and tequilas and the availability of American Spirit additive-free cigarettes.

Banners serves world food to a soundtrack of world music – both with a Caribbean twist. The atmosphere is relaxed, but buzzing and lively. Large groups gather to celebrate birthdays and diners indulge in discreet star-spotting – Simon Pegg, Matt Willis and Martin Freeman are all devotees. Service is friendly and engaging, if a little slow.

The Food
Daytime is all about enormous American style breakfasts, with Mexican huevos rancheros and refried beans adding zing. After dark, the food remains hearty, with daily specials such as Malaysian crayfish curry, chicken fajitas and jerk swordfish. Starters are described as small meals and feature sizzling chorizo in red wine and calamari with homemade tartar sauce, priced around the £6 mark. Portions are gigantic and those attempting to eat a three-course-meal are liable to be defeated – or, possibly, sick.

The beef burger is as good as any in London – a juicy meat patty, slathered in barbeque sauce, topped with cheese and served in a slightly sweet onion bun – the sweetness emphasising the flavour of the savoury meat. Crisp, hand-cut chips and a pile of salad complete the dish. Meat is cooked to order, but beware – the tendency is under rather than over. Anything rarer than medium may still have a pulse.

Of all the main courses (none topping £15,) the most popular is the jerk chicken platter, a Herculean plateful of half a jerk-marinated chicken, fried plantain or rice and peas and peanut sauce. Vegetarians are spoilt for choice with veggie bangers and mash and Aubergine and spinach curry among the options. Puddings for about £6 include fruit crumble and sticky toffee pudding. The exemplary Marine Ices provide frozen desserts. Mango sorbet drenched in home flavoured lime rum is a sweet, sour and boozy joy.

The Drink
Illy coffee, fresh fruit smoothies and ice-cream milkshakes are all-day charmers. A short wine-list is mostly new world and peaks at £25. House wine is uninspiring – Breton cider, Cruzcampo lager or bottled wheat beers make a better choice. Cocktails at approximately £25 a jug are essential. The best are the tequila- and rum-based offerings, which include a daily special. Mango margarita is a well- balanced concoction – sweet, salty and strong.

The Last Word
Banners is an unpretentious, friendly and laid-back establishment serving hearty, generous food to admiring locals.

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