Summer in the city - well, almost. The tourists are out in force - if they’re trapped here by a certain volcano, it does nothing to dampen their spirits - milling around in random fashion like swooping flocks of swallows. London is in full slap, turning her prettiest face to the world. To the river, then, to dine...

The Venue
The D&D restaurant empire has spread its tentacles - albeit perfectly seasoned and cooked al dente - far and wide, with the Pont de la Tour perhaps the best known. Less so, though, is the adjacent Bar and Grill. And that is perhaps no bad thing, as the cooking in the B&G is, dare we say, more “real” and this splendid offshoot is so far unexploited.

The Atmosphere
An engagingly eclectic mix appears in the Bar and Grill. There are some lawyerly types, of both the lean-and-hungry and overstuffed-and-pleased-with-themselves varieties. Bright young things tend towards the bar and wannabe WAGs parade hopefully between both dining establishments. So plenty of opportunity for amusing people-watching. The mellow ambiance is enhanced by a pianist who plays and sings laid back jazz, which is audible but not intrusive.

The Food
Lee Bennett, executive chef of Pont de la Tour, has given over the Bar and Grill kitchen to a young team, but it serves, he says, “the food I like to cook and the food I like to eat”. With you on the latter, Lee. This is hearty fare, simply served. Which is not to say that it lacks the finesse one associates with the D&D franchise - it is simply more pared down and the ingredients allowed to speak for themselves. So a starter of poached salmon rillette (£7.50) is served with sweet pickled cucumbers and melba toast - how delightfully retro! - and jambon persille (potted ham to you and me) is accompanied by celeriac remoulade and toasted walnut bread (£7.50). The bread is a little too strongly flavoured for the jambon, but it’s good enough to save and eat afterwards.

For mains, stone sea bass comes with a beautifully crispy skin and is served with charlotte potatoes and a confit of olives and tomatoes (£18). This is tasty, but threatens to overwhelm the delicacy of the fish. There’s nothing delicate about Toulouse sausages on puy lentils (£12.50). It’s an enormous portion, served in its own Le Creuset pot - you could try persuading the waiter to give you the pot if you manage to eat all of it. After all, you’ve got nothing to lose. The dish is a winner, though. The earthiness of the lentils is a match made in heaven for the meaty sausages. A touch of five-spice powder adds a hint of sweetness and a little background heat. You’ve got to love anything with a pulse.

If you’re a citrus fan, you’ll love the lemon tart, too (£4.95). It’s deeply lemony and not oversweet, offset with rhubarb confit and an elegant garnish of caramelised orange zest. No further adornment is necessary - the young team in the kitchen obviously have the courage of their confections. Pont boasts a lavish cheese trolley - genius - from which you may choose a selection (£7.50). So you may try a mild and creamy goat's cheese, a sweet and nutty Comte, well-flavoured brie and some Epoisses. This last is a revelation - the notoriously odoriferous French cheese will usually slide off the plate and follow you round the room, but this is a slightly drier version; indeed, its texture is described as “flaky in the middle”. We all have days like that.

The Drink
The Bar and Grill takes its drink every bit as seriously as its food. The house Champagne, for example, is a Piper Heidsieck at £55 a bottle or £13 a glass. Other sparklers include two British offerings, Hush Heath Estate Balfour and a Nyetimber classic cuvee, but at £75 and £84 respectively, you might as well stick to the Piper. The wine list offers a decent selection of both red and white, starting at around £24 a bottle, but escalating to heady heights. The signature cocktail, meanwhile, the Pont Martini is a heady blend of vodka, triple sec and peach schnapps with lime juice and bitters, decorate with fruit and worth every penny of £9.50.

The Last Word
Away from the formality of the restaurant proper, the Bar and Grill at Le Pont de la Tour offers fine food and wine, coupled with expert and attentive service, in a much more relaxed environment. And unlike the restaurant, the prices here are not a bridge too far.

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