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The Londoner's Guide to London
06 September 2008
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Barbican Lakeside

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Barbican Centre,
Silk Street,
The City,
London,
EC2Y 8DS

(020) 7382 7244 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byStephen Farmer26/06/2008
A nice little addition to the Barbican, this informal al fresco dining and drinking area works well despite a couple of understandable gripes.

The Venue
Located on the Barbican’s waterside, there’s plenty of scope for this to be a pleasant retreat away from the bustle of the city, or a great place to head to before a trip to the theatre. It’s a bit of a gamble having somewhere that’s entirely dependent on a notoriously unpredictable British summer but it’s certainly an admirable enough enterprise, and when it succeeds, it’s great.

There’s plenty of flora to keep the eye away from the weathered ‘70s facade of the City of London School For Girls building across the water, and the soft hum of the water fountains make for a nicely relaxing soundtrack to your meal. The tall, imposing and unattractive buildings that surround it ensure that it’s not exactly idyllic, but they are strangely comforting – acting as a reassuring buffer from the London hordes.

The dining area itself is only separated from the rest of the waterside by a few rows of small, potted trees that act as a border. Consequently it doesn’t feel exclusive but that’s not necessarily a bad thing as it adds to the relaxed, airy atmosphere that’s established by comfortable sofa seating and huge parasols keeping everybody cool. Just don’t go here if you’re after privacy, as the people that walk past can easily peak in and see what you’ve ordered.

The Atmosphere
Any restaurant or bar that’s got a waterside location should have a pleasant atmosphere, especially when the sun’s out, and the Barbican Lakeside is no different. On busy days it feels vibrant, fun and informal and at quieter times it feels relaxing and almost intimate. The clientele are a mixed bunch though, with anything from luvvies checking out the theatre, trendies sipping Champagne before an exhibition, or City workers looking for somewhere a little different for lunch. The layout of Barbican Lakeside is airy enough for a mix not to be a problem, as long as too many don’t turn up – it’s not a huge place.

The Food
Barbican Lakeside is currently serving a sausage and Champagne menu, with food options ranging from £6.95 to £12.95. Some selections are delicious, such as the Gourmet Dog Salad, which despite its unappealing name is a well presented mix of impeccable ingredients. Soft, tender, char-grilled chicken is complemented nicely by some very crispy, good quality bacon and hidden amongst a vibrant salad of baby leaves, avocado and some incredibly aromatic confit tomatoes. Also good is the smokey creole sausage that’s wrapped in what appears to be a guacamole tortilla and finished with a sweet barbecue sauce. The only slight disappointment on the menu is the trio of mini gourmet sausages, which are presented in hot dog rolls and served with kettle chips. It’s not that they’re unpleasant, it’s just they never raise themselves above the mundane, average hot dog you can buy outside a football ground. It’s fair enough calling them gourmet, but just how special can a sausage be? It’s debatable that anyone could make a gourmet hot dog and manage to justify its moniker - you’re a lot safer going for one of the excellent, and more reasonable, salads.

The Drink
Offering a decent selection of Champagnes, weekly cocktails and a few wines, the list isn’t huge but it’s well thought out and offers just about everything you need for the summer. The Searcy Brut NV is reasonably priced and an excellent prestige for those looking to enjoy a bit of bubbly without breaking the bank, but for those looking to spend a little more there are some well considered options, including a couple of great pink options and a very fine Blanc de Blancs.

Keeping the summer vibe ticking along nicely are a pair of classic Pimms cocktails so if you want to stay quintessentially British and suitably refreshed then these are a well made option that are available by the glass and the jug. Other cocktails change weekly but fresh fruit Bellinis are there throughout the summer and benefit from whatever fruit’s in season, ensuring they taste pretty darn good.

There are only a few wines and with the cheapest still topping £16, it’s not the place to go to penny pinch. You’ll be rewarded though if you do spend a little, with a great Sauvignon Blanc and a couple of excellent Roses.

The Last Word
Lakeside’s a worthy extra to all the arts and entertainment going on at the Barbican, offering some good food and drink at relatively reasonable prices. Let’s just hope the sun decides to put his hat on.
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