Barraco is a proper Brazilian boteco bar, bringing a part of Rio De Janeiro’s laid back eating and drinking culture to London.

The Venue
Barraco could very possibly be London’s only authentic boteco bar – Brazil’s (and in particular, Rio De Janeiro’s) equivalent of a pub or cafe – an informal all day place to go to eat, drink, chat and, most importantly of all, relax. Slightly off the beaten track, Barraco is located on a side street off Kilburn High Road where it is popular amongst the sizable population of Latin American locals. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, the cafe also plays host to live Brazilian music.

The Atmosphere
From the outside, Barraco could be dismissed as another greasy spoon. Inside it maintains an element of this with its small cafe intimacy but offers not only a much more Brazilian atmosphere but also a much more attentive level of service. Packed full of Brazilian knick-knacks, it’s mismatched and cluttered but in quite a deliberate, homely way. As well as giving the cafe its authentic Latin American feel and laid-back vibe, this also provides endless interest – there are maps, flags, ornaments and packets of Brazilian groceries - and if you ask one of the owners it seems every item has a story to tell.

The front section of the cafe is small and directly overlooks the kitchen area adding to the intimacy and also offering up some very tantalising aromas. A back room is also available should it get too busy or if there is live music. Outside seats are also available, but the weather is one of the very few things which reminds you this is still London, not Rio De Janeiro.

The Food
Brazil’s food influences come from those countries which have at certain times occupied the country and include Spain, Portugal, Italy and Lebanon – the flavours of which can all be found on the cafe’s large and varied menu. The selection of starters make a menu of their own and it is easy to see the influence of Spain and Lebanon’s tapas / mezze culture. Bolinho de bacalhau (codfish cakes, £4) are potato based with a strong salt-cod flavour. Kibe (minced beef and wheatgrain with mint, £4) are meaty tasting and firm to the bite with delicate spicing. Porcao de bolinhas de queijo (breaded cheese balls, £4) have a crisp coating and are filled with creamy, salty curd cheese. The South American classic mandioca frita (fried yam, £4) which are almost enough to put potato-based chips to shame with a crunchy outside, fluffy on the inside and sugary sweet from the cassava. The cafe clearly has deep-frying down to a fine art.

The starters are the simple part – the menu then divides itself between several Brazilian classic styles. There are Italian influenced parmeggiana (baked dishes topped with breadcrumbs and cheese, similar to gratins), risottos, moquecas (traditional fish stews), soups, salads, grelhados (grills, including steaks) and plenty more besides. The staff owners will happily advise on what to order or even create special platters, but the really the idea is to forget formalities and just go for what you feel like.

Picanha (grilled rump steak, £10) is one of the most popular options. This comes grilled with onions and served with bread alongside sides including feijao (beans, £3 as a side) and arroz (rice, £3), and once again shows Brazil’s varied food influences in its likeness to Mexican food, although spicing is much more subtle and flavours are simpler – the beef takes centre stage. Moquecas camarao, piexe e frutos do mar (mixed seafood stew, £12) is a highlight of the menu. White fish, prawns and squid are cooked in a coconut based, saffron infused sauce along with onions, garlic and peppers creating a stew which is rich and creamy yet undeniably fresh tasting. Within it, tilapia is flaky and soft whilst the seafood is not overdone. Extra bread comes in handy to mop up the juices.

Portions are generous throughout so it’s worth considering pudding at the outset. The selection is small but tempting. Pudim (condensed milk pudding, £3 a slice) is a variation on creme caramel, but denser and sweeter whilst brigadeirao (£3 a slice) ups the ante by taking pudim and throwing some chocolate into the mix. Beijinho (£1 for a small cake) seems to be a variation on theme. Crispy on the outside but with a similar, eggy creaminess inside only this time flavoured with fresh coconut – all are seriously good, seriously indulgent puddings.

The Drink
Being an all-day cafe, Barraco offers a whole range of drinks from coffees to cocktails, wines to fruit juices. Fruit drinks (£2) are one of their specialties coming in an array of exotic flavours such as caju (cashew fruit), papaja (papaya) and graviola (sour sop). Another of their specialties packs a bit more of a punch. The Caipirinha cocktail (£3.50) is almost a national emblem of Brazil, blending the Brazilian sugar spirit Cachaca with sugar and lime, and is dangerously easy to drink. Other popular Brazilian options include Cerveja bottled lager (£2.50) and the highly acclaimed draft beer Chopp (£3) plus cans of the herbal based Guarana (£1).

The Last Word
Barraco is somewhere to meet friends, relax and unwind as well as somewhere to enjoy top notch Brazilian cooking.

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