In terms of atmosphere, décor, presentation and, of course, the cuisine, The Battersea Rickshaw is an Indian jewel by the Thames.

The Venue
The Rickshaw is on a charming continental-style square near the river in Battersea and has been a local landmark for the past 18 years, attracting a loyal clientele. After a comprehensive refit the new Battersea Rickshaw has shifted decidedly upmarket. The restaurant is run by Yasmin Akhtar, former group general manager of Chez Gerard, and in charge of the kitchen is Mohammed Saleem, previously sous chef of Lazeez in Soho, who has added his own modern Punjabi-inspired gems to the tried-and-tested classics.

The Atmosphere
The feel of the new-look Rickshaw is one of smooth, understated cool. The big glass frontage remains, but inside it’s all change with a light brown leather banquette along the far wall, funky lampshades and a big mirror at the end of the room. There’s a low-level hubbub and ambient Indian music in the background. The bar is on the left as you come in with the main seating area on the right. There are a number of tables outside too and the service is polite and efficient.

The Food
For starters the duck samosas (£5.50) are a taste of things to come: the combination of the rich meat filling, light casing and kiwi chutney is perfect. The golgappas (puffed wheat shells) with their yoghurt, potato and chick pea centre are tasty and stimulating too and presented with two pomegranate grains on top. Other starters are equally appealing: prawns in sesame paste and beetroot, lamb chops with ginger and nutmeg, and a trio of chicken tikka.

For mains, the sea bass is pretty as a picture with its charred skin topped with crispy celery julienne. The fish itself is fresh and succulent. The lamb (nalli gosht) falls off the bone and its spicy sauce lets it shine rather than the other way around. Other mains include stir-fried king prawns with mustard seeds and aniseed (£9) and chicken in a tomato, yoghurt, cashew nut and melon seed sauce (£7.50). For dessert, the creme brûlée with its charred, crispy crust and its gloopy sweet cream underneath was a real treat, while the mango kulfi was smooth and subtle. Every dish is beautifully presented and mains average out at (an eminently affordable) £8 each.

The Drink
The drinks list is very good value compared to most restaurants of this quality. The bottles of Tiger and Cobra beers are £3.20 (33cl) and £5.90 (66cl). And the wines start at £9 for a bottle of good house white or red. There is an extensive choice—however, the Syrah Rose Domaine Grauzan 2005-6 is recommended (£14.50): it is clear and sharp, cutting through the spice, but with just the right amount of fruitiness.

The Last Word
Indian fine dining comes of age in a cool, calm, cosmopolitan setting.

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