Beatroot

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 3 reviews

Venue Image
92 Berwick Street,
Soho,
London,
W1F 0QD

0871 971 6438
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMichael Spicer16/05/2008
Slap bang in the middle of the Soho and partially hidden by the historic fruit and vegetable market on Berwick Street, Beatroot is a funky little vegetarian cafe serving delectable lunchtime options for all manner of gastronomes.

The Venue
The design of Beatroot is a fusion of bright greens and oranges, beckoning the customer in with fresh faced optimism. Blob-shaped tables take up half the cafe, encouraging one to budge up to make room for other diners which is a little unwelcome if you’d rather have your own space. On the other half, a team of friendly staff members stand behind a long display counter, filled with the most delicious and entirely meat free lunchtime fare.

The Atmosphere
Despite being a relatively new venture, word of mouth has travelled fast around Soho and on most days you will find multimedia hermits emerge from their edit suites on Wardour Street to regenerate in Beatroot before returning to work. Yummy mummies have also found this venue on their radar and converge by one o’clock to sit, eat and talk. General friendly chatter, satisfying food and attentive staff help make this a warm, if intimate, environment. There are also free copies of Positive News and Green Event magazine to read.

The Food
It really doesn’t matter if you’re a herbivore, a carnivore or a fussy two year old with a wheat allergy, you’ll find something here to fulfil the lunchtime void. It may dismay some to know that the method of distributing the food is through Chinese takeaway-style boxes that come in three sizes costing between £4 and £5. A staff member grabs a box and fills it to the brim will all the food you require; so if you feel like a piece of their beautifully made leak and tomato quiche, a portion of brown rice in sesame seed oil and perhaps a small slice of their vegetarian shepherds pie with lentils and mushrooms, it will all be unceremoniously dumped into the same box.

However, the pleasure garnered from the taste of the food eradicates any ill-feeling about the informal nature of the food presentation. Everything looks so good that it’s difficult not to ask for another box. The food has an international flavour, providing dishes such as moussaka, curry, and lasagne, all of them finding a new life through the exclusion of meat and inclusion of ingredients such as perfectly cooked Mediterranean vegetables, exotic herbs and spices, and Soya mince. The salads are deliciously vibrant thanks to a selection of creative dressings including a scintillating olive with the added zest of lemon and sweet tahini vinaigrette. The sausage rolls are also highly recommended with the Soya mince making it almost indistinguishable from the real thing. The Shepherd’s Pie doesn’t taste anything like Shepherd’s Pie but the lentils and mushrooms are wonderfully cooked and flavoursome, and the herby sauces divert one’s attention from the lack of meat, making it a veritable veggie triumph. Desserts are available in the form of, among other things, carrot cake, brought to life with added spices and a marvellous lemon icing, and a gorgeous Bakewell slice with strawberry conserve.

The Drink
There are a number of smoothies on offer including the Berry Fusion, a powerful potion given a refreshing zing thanks to the addition of acai berries. Other concoctions include the beautiful Blue Moon which successfully combines vanilla milk with blueberries, banana and apple to create a beverage which tastes too sweet to be good for you.

The Last Word
Yes, you may feel overly snug in Beatroot as you sink your wooden fork into the several layers of freshly cooked vegetarian cuisine but such matters will pale into insignificance upon your first bite. Don’t order a small box, by the way. You’ll regret it.
Beatroot has been reviewed by 3 users

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Content updated: 14/02/2012 21:56
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