Mark Lane,
Off Fenchurch Street,
Bank,
London,
EC3R 7AA
(020) 7444 0004
The ViewLondon Review
Bringing opera to The City, Bel Canto offers an intoxicatingly indulgent night of superb food and cultured accompaniment.The VenueLocated in the heart of the financial district but tucked away in secluded Minster Court, Bel Canto offers City folk an opulent and refreshing new dining experience. Greeted by courteous door staff who open the door to an extravagantly decorated lift, visitors are transported to what feels like an exclusive, underground restaurant downstairs, where elegant decor immediately hints at the splendour that awaits. Lavish Elizabethan dresses, authentic opera posters, extravagant chandeliers and an impressively sleek grand piano are offset nicely by simple colour schemes, soft lighting and brushed wooden flooring that combine to offer a feel of relaxed, informal elegance.
The table decor is typically French and follows the simple, yet sophisticated theme with immaculate whites, shimmering cutlery and crystal clear glasses ensuring that nothing detracts from the food or the experience. The use of restaurant space itself is impeccable, with diners having more than enough room to feel the kind of exclusivity one expects from the very finest of restaurants. The piano acts a fabulous centrepiece, with tables carefully coordinated in order for it to be easily visible, though seating to the rear of the restaurant is plentiful and perfect for those diners who want to keep things more intimate.
The AtmosphereThis is where Bel Canto really comes into its own, and what makes it such a special place. With the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere already established thanks to the setting, the impressive piano playing begins gently, acting as a fine accompaniment to the meal. This is soon followed by the courteous, warm waiting staff erupting into stunning song, belting out arias from well known operas that leave the hairs on the back of your neck tingling.
Visitors who might be a little apprehensive about such an intrusion will be soon swept along with what amounts to an intoxicating, seductive addition to the dining experience, but those looking for something a little less involved can always pick a table further away, where conversation can be continued and the entertainment dipped in and out of. But those who are bold and sit near the piano will be richly rewarded, however cynical they are on arrival.
Taking place every fifteen to twenty minutes, the short burst of song from incredibly talented singers act as delightful operatic interludes to the meal, where diners are forced by their sensibilities to become engrossed. It’s like being part of a piece of immersive theatre, where impressively professional performances reverberate close by, serenading at tables and bringing the libretto to the diners themselves. The singers are happy to discuss the pieces too, so anybody who might be interested can enjoy friendly conversations with people who clearly love what they are doing, and clearly love to inform.
Thanks to its location, the restaurant will no doubt attract the suits looking for somewhere offering something different to the plethora of less imaginative restaurants in the area, but Bel Canto is certainly worth making a pilgrimage to if you’re not based nearby. It would be the perfect place to impress, especially on a first date, where any awkward moments of conversational silence will soon be filled by song. And of course, the whole affair certainly offers talking points aplenty anyway.
The FoodWhen the entertainment is as impressive as it is at Bel Canto, diners might expect the food to play second fiddle, but part of the restaurant’s charm is that even without the opera it would still be well worth a visit. A fixed price, three course menu, coming in at a surprisingly reasonable £65.00 per head offers a good choice of modern French dishes, all of which showcase clear dedication and expertise in the kitchen.
A starter of deliciously mature goat’s cheese served on French bread toast with tapenade, ricotta, caramelised cherry tomatoes and a small salad of baby leaves is exquisite. The dish is drizzled in a thin, warmed honey, with the tartness of the superb cheese being beautifully complemented well by the sweetness of the honey. The steamed red mullet is equally well thought out and uses similarly good quality ingredients. Beautifully cooked, fresh mullet is complemented by a simple accompaniment of courgette and sun-blushed tomatoes, creating a clear, clean and superbly textured starter.
Mains continue the good impression, with the sea bass being a particular highlight. The fish is cooked to absolute perfection, with its soft, succulent flesh held together by a lightly crisped skin that showcases an incredibly delicate hand in the kitchen. It’s served on deliciously seasoned provencale crushed potatoes and fennel. In a nod to more traditional French cuisine, the slow cooked pot-au-feu of beef is a heartier affair, seasoned with fleur de sel. It’s the perfect winter warmer if you’re looking for something a little more substantial to the more delicate options on the menu, and boasts some remarkably tender, well cooked beef.
Desserts are as good as you’d expect from a French restaurant, with a pan fried, rich and moist rum baba being the choice selection, benefiting from a sublime vanilla bourbon ice cream that proves that somehow, rum and bourbon can work impeccably well together.
The DrinkIn keeping with its location, Bel Canto will keep the City boys more than happy thanks to an impressive wine list that caters well for those looking to splash the cash, but also for those looking for something slightly cheaper. The house white, a delicate, crisp Verdicchio di Matelica is a snip at £17.00 for the bottle, and goes especially well with the host of excellent fish dishes on the menu. If you really want to splash out however, there are some exquisite French options, with a meaty Chevalier Montrachet being the pick, but coming in at a hefty £250.00.
An excellent, almost gluggable Beaujolais stands out amongst the cheaper red options at £26.00, whilst £76.00 for a vibrant and spicy Chateauneuf-du-pape will prove a big hit with those happy to indulge. A solid selection of Champagnes will ensure Bel Canto can hold its own as somewhere suitable for a celebration, with a well priced Dom Perignon option as well as a host of choices from Cristal makers Louis Roederer.
The Last WordA fantastic concept allied with great modern French cuisine makes Bel Canto a genuine plus for London, let alone The City. And when the curtain comes down, even the most philistine of visitors will leave with a smile, quietly humming La Traviata.
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