Yet to tap into its Trappist origins and flex its Flemish muscles, Belgo’s latest incarnation is strangely indistinctive and devoid of the style and imagination that has lit up other restaurants in the chain. Not that it seems to have put the punters off, who pour into the place in their droves, supping on endless supplies of fruity ale with all the vigor of a young Van Damme.

The Venue
Belgo Bromley is strategically stationed on the outskirts of The Glades, away from the stifling suffocation of the shopping centre and gleeful gaggles of teenage girls. The interior seems generic, all muted greens and browns with a gleaming centralised bar that separates the two distinct dining areas. It’s the first thing you see when you walk into the restaurant and perfectly placed for those who just want something to drink. The only hint of colour can be found on a triumvirate of pictures on the wall that depict Belgo Bill, the chain's portly, sausage strewn mascot who legend has it is always a little inebriated – not that you’d be able to tell from the glum expression on his face. The terraced area out front however, is a handy addition and prime for socialites during summer time.

The Atmosphere
Generic or not, the locals are clearly lapping up Belgo’s brand of mainstream dining judging by the fact that it’s positively packed by 8pm on a Friday evening. Some may be surprised that staff aren’t clad in traditional attire but it matters not when they’re as accessible as those at the Bromley branch. There’s a consistency and fluidity about the service and even when their backs are against the wall, they’re happy to suggest supplementary side dishes that are likely to complement the mains or favourites from the intimidating list of beers on offer. Bromley is still stringently middle class by its nature so the customers are all of the smart casual variety though they are comprised of couples, families and groups of all ages.

The Food
Mussels are the mainstay of the Belgo menu with a range of options for starter or main but if you fancy something different there are plenty of alternatives. Sauteed squid and chorizo with roquette and baby gem (£6.25) is one to tantalise the taste buds and early indications are positive. Presentation is precise and the aroma pleasant but it’s much ado about nothing. The chorizo is as it should be and sports a salty, chargrilled tang and it’s easily the best ingredient on the plate. The squid is textured appropriately – flexible without being overly rubbery – but there’s not enough of it and it’s all buried under a mound of roquette. Steamed asparagus with vinaigrette (hollandaise sauce is also an option for accompaniment) is solid if unspectacular. Priced at £6.50, it’s a smidge undercooked and may well have been better grilled. The vinaigrette is also a shade overpowering.

Chargrilled aged prime 10oz rib-eye steak with frites and caramelised onions (£16.95) served with garlic butter or peppercorn sauce is another satisfying if uninspiring dish. It’s slightly overcooked and £3 or £4 more than it should be but these are minor quibbles in an otherwise competent offering. Wild boar sausages with Belgian stoemp mash and berry jus (£9.95) is easily the dish of the day and worth every penny. The bangers are big, wholesome, robust beasts; the Belgian style mash is moist and filled with flavoursome herbs and the berries (more clumps than jus) add an agreeably sweet lick. And the red cabbage braised with raspberry beer (£2.75) makes for an excellent side dish and well suggested by the waiter.

Unfortunately, puddings are pedestrian and rather plain. Belgian dark chocolate cheesecake on a baked biscuit base with dark chocolate sauce (£5.25) is serviceable fare but the biscuit base is too flaky, the sauce overly gooey and the cake itself is too compact and clunky. Brussels style waffle with vanilla ice cream, Chantilly cream and white chocolate sauce (£5.25) is little better. The ice cream is pleasant and the sauce suitably textured but the waffles themselves are a little too soft and it could do with an additional flavour – cinnamon or the like – to tie it all together.

The Drink
Beer is the order of the day at Belgo and with an overwhelmingly large list, it’s undoubtedly the chain's unique selling point. On the monastic section, there are beers that have been brewed by Trappist monks like a Chimey Bleu (£4.95) and an Orval (£4.60). They have Abbey beers – following the tradition of Belgian Monastic but not brewed at the monastery – ranging from £3.85 to £4.60. There are blonde beers – the most popular and widely exported in Belgium – blonde ales, amber beers, white beers and the standout section – fruit beers. With most priced at £4.60 a pop, they’re not cheap but complement food better than your average pint of Stella. Brave souls may plump for chocolate but raspberry (sharp and sweet) and passion fruit (divertingly docile) are much better options. Otherwise, white wines are reasonably priced at £14.25 to £24.95 a bottle. It’s much the same for reds with several European options (£14.25 - £22.50) whilst there are two roses on offer – one from Italy (£16.25) and one from Spain (£17.75).

The Last Word
Although Belgo’s fifth and latest branch seems too staid and uninspired to work as a themed restaurant, the locals are still lapping it up so they must be doing something right.

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