Sweet and petite, Bellevue Rendezvous emerges triumphant from its former incarnation as Mini Mundus.

The Venue
Although Wandsworth restaurant Mini Mundus was a favourite with well-heeled locals, who were so entranced with the food that they’d request dishes that were no longer on the menu, visitors from outside SW17 were slightly confused at the name – Mini Mundus not sounding tres French. The owners have rebranded the restaurant, titling it Bellevue Rendezous courtesy of its close position to Bellevue Road, revamped the menu and redecorated the interior.

And as a local French restaurant, it looks lovely. The dark wood walls have been lightened up with large bright flowers and a slanted roof is covered with curvy Hessian drapes. Tables are wood and napkins are rough cloth, a nice contrast to the shiny cutlery and sparkling glasses. Towards the front is an airy conservatory area, bordered by bookshelves.

The Atmosphere
There’s stiff competition from other restaurants in the area – including the famed Chez Bruce – but you get the impression that Bellevue Rendezvous’ loyal clientele would keep pouring through the door no matter what it calls itself, just as long as it keeps serving the same standard of French fare. Although there’s no kids menu as such, children are welcome and catered to with relative ease by warm, gracious staff. Otherwise it’s mostly couples soaking up the rustic, romantic atmosphere and the low, sultry French music.

The Food
The menu has been given an overhaul but if you’re a fan of the chef’s well established classics then have no fear. There are actually two separate menus, a set menu which features the restaurant’s traditional dishes and an a la carte menu which changes regularly. Diners are encouraged to mix and match, but otherwise the set menu is good value for money at £12.50 and £15 for two and three courses for lunch and £16 and £19 for two and three courses for dinner. A la carte dishes are priced at about £6 to £8 for starters and £12 to £15 for mains.

Starters include broccoli soup and foie gras with peach chutney. The former is smooth, light and subtly flavoured, a pale green colour with bits of darker green from the chunks of broccoli. Foie gras with peach chutney is more of a pate than the actual livers, but it’s nicely presented on a wooden board with a stripe of the bright orange chutney between the foie gras and three crisp slices of bread. It’s a large portion – some more bread would be handy – but it’s deliciously rich and the chutney is just sweet enough without being too sugary or overpowering.

For mains, the sea bass with risotto and roasted vegetables (including slices of aubergines and peppers) is well cooked, the fish retaining its firmness. The risotto is mixed through with tomato sauce and has a refreshing, almost tangy flavour that’s surprisingly a good combination with the fish. Bavette steak is unfortunately slightly overdone, but this is forgiven as the flavour of the meat is incredibly moreish thanks to a topping of sauteed onions and shallots. The smell alone is so enticing that you’ll find yourself sniffing the air in anticipation if a table next to you orders it. The dressed salad and diced potatoes that come on the side are a good accompaniment, the potatoes in particular being floury, slightly crisp and well salted.

Only a few desserts are on offer, plus a selection of cheeses, but if you’ve overdone it on the steak then mango and strawberry salad is perhaps the best choice. Served in a martini glass, diced pieces of mango and strawberries are ripe, fresh and not too sweet. The chocolate fondant, on the other hand, is incredibly indulgent and filled to bursting with hot, sugary chocolate sauce.

The Drink
Although you might expect a French restaurant to have an entirely French wine list, Bellevue Rendezvous broadens their horizons to offer choices from other countries including New Zealand, Italy and Spain. Bottles range from about £15 to about £80, but most choices are between £20 and £30. The house white (£15 a bottle) is a very drinkable choice from Bergerac, with an almost apricot-like flavour.

The Last Word
A new look, a refreshed menu and a brand new name clearly hasn’t put off the residents of SW17 – Bellevue Rendezvous is a place you’d be happy to call your local neighbourhood restaurant.

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