Located beneath the popular Absolut Icebar, belowzero is a warm and cosy retreat with an inventive menu.

The Venue
belowzero is set up into three distinct areas, the bulk of it residing under the famous Absolut Icebar, where everything – including the glasses – is made of ice. On the ground floor is the Wolf Bar, which is relatively unassuming and laid back thanks to touches of brown and grey. Downstairs the Reindeer Lounge is perfect for a before- or after-dinner drink, with low, curved seats and heavy wood tables and cushion-scattered sofa style seats. The bar in the lounge is quite a talking point, with a glowing front and a beautiful light fixture overhead, made up of glass baubles of different sizes and a few empty bottles mixed in. The effect is that of a group of calming, glimmering bubbles hovering over the bar.

The restaurant, called the Moose Dining Room (sensing an arctic theme here?) is separated from the lounge by red velvet curtains. Although the room seems small, the tables are well spaced with a few that would seat good-sized groups; stringy curtains further divide the restaurant, giving a sense of privacy. The seats and tables are similar to the lounge area, with dark-coloured wood and scattered cushions. Instead of art, flat-screen TVs play graphics of arctic landscapes during a shimmering Aurora Borealis, with the occasional moose and clump of evergreens shadowed on the screen. The overall colour theme is deep browns, reds and opaque black, making for a very warming atmosphere.

The Atmosphere
Because of belowzero’s location underneath Absolut Icebar, people seem to stumble on it when the bar is full booked, or by booking the restaurant as an afterthought. As such the restaurant is quite quiet, removed from the roving eyes of the groups that frequent Soho – or Mayfair – for drinks and dinner. Although it would be the perfect spot for an intimate date, the restaurant is likewise suited for impressing clients or if you want a quiet night out with friends, as the feel of the place is calm and subdued, but not stuffy.

The Food
Although their former menu sang the praises of hearty fish dishes and wintry game, belowzero’s new menu is all about tapas. A really good value set menu is available when you visit the restaurant in conjunction with the Icebar: three small plates (or a small plate and a grill) plus a side dish and a dessert for £18 each. Even the small plates are relatively substantial for tapas and there’s more than enough food to go around. The menu otherwise is also relatively reasonably priced, especially for Central London, with small plates and desserts for £5, side dishes for £3 and grills from £7 to £13. According to the menu, the restaurant recommends one to four small plates per person, three plates being similar to a two course meal.

Tapas dishes are divided up into veggie, seafood and meat options, with five choices in each section. New season leeks with toasted Camembert and a potato rosemary scone is surprisingly good – who knew leeks had so much flavour? They’ve been marinated and have a fresh, garlicky taste that’s very moreish when paired with the large, crumbly scone. Baked spring onion tart is served up as a generous slice, with fresh, intense flavours thanks to a scattering of cherry tomatoes. From the seafood menu, the standout is the fish and chips, which comes wrapped in a cone of newspaper. The fish is more like fish tempura than fried fish, as the batter is crisp and light. The chips are needle-thin slivers instead of the usual chunky potatoes, and their crispness further enhances the delicacy of the fish. Monkfish medallions are another standout, lightly fried and accompanied by an intensely spicy citrus sauce.

Chorizo comes served in a shallow dish on top of several slices of meltingly soft, tart apple and beside a wedge of cheese. The chorizo pieces are small but plump, with a tangy, slightly oily flavour. Duck crepes come in a sizeable portion of four, but compared to the other dishes, the flavours don’t stand up as well. They’re a bit bland and boring in comparison to the other options on the menu. Sides include flatbreads and dips (the best one being a salty olive tapenade) and rings of red onion fried in a spicy batter. For dessert, the smooth and sweet Kahlua pecan tart comes with lightly crunchy, nutty praline ice cream, whilst the banana souffle is rich and subtle.

The Drink
The lengthy wine list covers most well known countries, with a nice variety of new world choices. Glasses start from about £5 and bottles from about £16, with a few options over £100 if you like to splash out when it comes to drinks. A 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from Wild Rock, Marlborough, (£7.50 per glass, £25 per bottle) is crisp, pure and slightly grassy, with no aftertaste. There’s also a vast cocktail list, starting from £7.50, which is well priced for the area, and a wide choice of spirits and liqueurs.

The Last Word
Intimate and secluded, belowzero offers a great atmosphere and well priced, quality tapas in the West End.

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