Belsize Kitchen

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68 Belsize Lane,
London,
NW3 5BJ

(020) 7794 6957

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byVivienne Egan07/11/2011
A fairly recent addition to the streets of Finchley, Belsize Kitchen serves to showcase the considerable talents of New Zealand chef Adrian Stoddard and his team from within a relatively low-key setting.

The Venue
Belsize Kitchen is small and unassuming - retaining the feel of a smart cafe that has adapted itself to accommodate the dinner crowd, as opposed to being a trendy new restaurant in its own right. Decor is sparse, but includes a series of contemporary paintings (many for sale) dotted along the walls and a large glass counter displaying the range of international beers on offer, as well as the selection of homemade cakes that are sold here throughout the day.

The Atmosphere
Dimly lit yet warm, the restaurant provides a relaxed atmosphere that is hampered only slightly by the noticeable quietness of the place. However, an effort is still made to entertain those that do choose to dine here, with live acoustic sets on Thursday and Saturday nights. Whether folksy/bluesy strumming appeals or not, it's not intrusive enough to mar conversation and also serves as evidence of the restaurant’s somewhat off-beat, indie style.

The Food
A seasonal, frequently-changing menu offers a range of dishes that are accessible to most palates whilst displaying a degree of imagination and sophistication. Starters include a delicious spiced duck breast with balsamic figs and beetroot salad (£7), with tender meat that is wonderfully rich without being fatty, and fresh, juicy figs that are as complementary as they are aesthetically pleasing. Feta stuffed courgette flower is also an indulgent treat but lacks a certain depth of flavour - the delicate taste of the vegetable itself well and truly overpowered by the feta – although the light and crispy batter is well-judged.

A main course of Scottish girolles with oyster mushroom rigatoni and thyme and parmesan (£11.50) is indicative of an attention to the balancing of flavours and textures that's often lacking in vegetarian dishes. The girolles themselves possess a sweet, earthy taste that's complemented well by the moist and fragrant oyster mushrooms. Guinea fowl two ways: confit legs and roasted breast with spelt grain risotto and brussle tops (£14) is also superb and generously portioned; the crisp skin of the confit leg giving way to moist, juicy flesh and the roasted breast retaining the delicate flavour of the meat. The accompanying risotto is served al dente and is seasoned well.

Desserts include a delectable bramley apple crumble with saffron ice cream (£5) - a foodie twist on an old favourite that's in possession of well-executed contrast between hot/cold and sweet/spicy. Raspberry Eton mess with sherry and sliced almonds (£4.50) is also very pleasant, with the sharply-sweet fruit and fresh, thick cream offset by a welcome kick of alcohol.

The Drink
A large selection of drinks are on offer, including a substantial list of wines headed by the ‘Il Banchetto Sangiovese’ house red (£14), which is relatively light with a refreshing note of acidity. The range of bottled beers and ciders also fail to disappoint, including the ever-popular Frulli and Leffe, as well as kiwi staples such as ‘Macs Golden Lager’, Summer Ale, and crushed apple cider (all £3.50). Non-alcoholic options include milkshakes (£2.50), organic ginger beer and a large range of organic teas (£2.20 for a pot).

The Last Word
All in all, the Belsize Kitchen is an understated venue that serves sophisticated cuisine at reasonable prices. Don’t go in expecting to be wowed by a grand setting and you'll find yourself rewarded by a well put together menu that more than delivers on quality.
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